The two weeks since I left Myanmar are best described as an amazing hodgepodge of activities. On my way back I swung back through London, and got to experience this English countryside thing for the first time. My friend Daisy (I met her on the Flash Pack tour in Morocco) lives in Hungerford, which is a picturesque village about 90 minutes outside of London. The Main Street is absolutely adorable and includes some charming antique shops (not shockingly they have older stuff in England than we do in the U.S.) as well as equal amount of quintessential local pubs. Daisy led me on her daily walking route, through the beautiful countryside and then along an equally picturesque riverbank, dotted with homes and a few old stone churches. You kind of feel back in time.
As we walked, Daisy told me about a black mark on Hungerford’s history, due to he now infamous “Hungerford Massacre,” which occurred in the 1980’s, when a mentally unstable person walked down the streets of the town randomly firing a rifle at people and taking 16 innocent lives. Following the tragedy, the gun laws in England were severely tightened (including a ban on semi automatic weapons altogether) and the incident remains one of the deadliest mass shootings ever in the UK. It was a timely anecdote to hear as an American, and also frustrating to be reminded that much of our current gun violence is actually preventable. Sigh…
Tangentially, I also recently learned that in England it is illegal to attack someone who is breaking into your house, in defense of your property (self-defense is different). A British friend explained that their strategy is to make the intruder a cup of tea and try to convince them to leave. Ha! Although I wouldn’t be shocked if that has actually happened at some point… those Brits certainly love tea and hate conflict.
I digress…. back to Hungerford! After our walk, Daisy showed me the true Hungerford Sunday Funday experience. It was faaaantastic! English pubs are just the best! They all have such a cozy and welcoming vibe, and to people of all ages, families, and even dogs! Also, get this- most pubs don’t have TVs and the focus is on conversation and community building. What a novel idea! I realized pretty quickly that Hungerford doesn’t have a lot of American visitors and I kind of liked being a novelty show. Daisy’s parents even came out for the viewing of the American in Hungerford! 
Upon meeting her parents, it was obvious where Daisy gets her contagious personality- her parents are great people and I have no doubt their family home was full of laughter (like all the time) while Daisy was growing up.
A few days later I headed back to good ole DC, realizing I’d been gone for seven weeks during this travel stint- guess I’d lost track! I was glad to be heading home, if for no other reason than to dump some of the excessive luggage I’d been lugging around. It was an Epic Packing Fail. In my defense, it’s not easy to pack for seven weeks (did I even know I’d be gone for seven weeks when I packed?) and to account for weather in Finland and Myanmar alike. Oh, the trials and tribulations of Teha’s Travels! (Not complaining, I swear!)
At home, I spent a day going through mail and doing laundry and, of course, I motored over to my brother’s house to see my nieces and nephew (and you guys too, Seth and Keke). No offense to my family and friends – as you know I adore you- but it’s my nieces and nephews who I miss the most when I’m traveling. I think they were just a little excited to see me too! 
No rest for the weary though… I had an upcoming Travelling Trio adventure to tend to! You may recall our last adventure was to Portugal in October. For a March destination we’d tossed around Costa Rica (all of us are dying to go) but schedules didn’t allow the time so we decided on a domestic weekend trip to… Richmond, Virginia. An obvious second choice to Costa Rica? I have to say I was certainly not complaining about not getting on another plane and the train ride was quite lovely (and convenient!) So, I’ve driven through Richmond a few times (meaning I know what route 95 looks like there) and I’d seen the University of Richmond during my college touring (the dealbreaker was a HUGE lake separating the girls dorms and boys dorms- it seemed like an unnecessary barrier). But, until now, I hadn’t actually spent time in the city. And, I have to say, I liked it a lot! In fact, the entire Traveling Trio was pleasantly surprised by good ole Richmond! It’s definitely a lot more happening than I expected- a smidge edgy (this surprised me) and with a lil’ industrial feel, including lots of old warehouse based developments underway. Here we are being edgy! 
Richmond also has the laid-back vibe of a college town but combined with the maturity of an epic historic location, and with the confidence and character that goes along with that. The people are also really friendly- with a southern charm that isn’t over the top and almost seems more midwestern at times. We had a jolly old time exploring the city, including it’s bourgeoning restaurant scene and historic highlights, such as a ridiculously fancy brunch at the Jefferson Hotel (Page had us on a waiting list and we got the green light at the very last minute). 
I then headed up to New England for the main event of my March America fly-by. I spent a few days visiting my New Hampshire nephew contingent (and upping my snowman game) before heading down to Boston. 
Hugo was NOT happy when he came home from school and Frosty was no more. The hard knocks life throws at a four year old! 
So, I’ll be honest that it would have been slightly more convenient to remain in Southeast Asia in between trips to Myanmar and the Philippines. Even with my shoddy sense of geography, I know that much. However, this was not an option! It turned out that on the eve of St. Patrick’s Day, my most amazing Dad was to be the honoree at a large and prestigious gala in Boston- it was an extremely well-deserved tribute to him following a 40-year career in social services, during which (according to personal testimonies at the event) he’s impacted gazillions of lives. Obvs, I HAD to be there! Those of you who know Mark Kennard understand completely… my Dad is just THE BEST! He really is. And, his acceptance speech was absolutely incredible (I may be slightly biased, as he may or may not have referred to me as “our 8th Wonder of the World” in the speech). Here’s the man of the hour! 
The whole family was very proud to be there, especially at the head table with THE Honoree! Here are a few pics of some of my Dad’s entourage (which included Baby Theodore strapped to Tobi’s front!). 
Of course, Seth was trying to hog the spotlight during the red carpet photo shoot. Brothers!
Conveniently the next day was was St. Patty’s day, and what better city to celebrate in than Boston?!? (Okay, yes, Dublin is better…but still pretty solid in Bean-town!) We jumped right into the festivities, including joining an impromptu parade with a bunch of bagpipers. It seemed totally normal at the time and we blended right in! 
I stayed with my friends Porsha and Dennis the next night and was entertained by their hilarious kiddo, Makayla, and her sidekick, Gatsby. Porsh and Dennis moved to Boston from DC last year and it was great to catch up with them. 
Then it was back to DC for packing once again (in true consultant fashion, I implemented some process improvement measures as a result of of my lessons learned from last time). I was planning to arrive a day early for my next Flash Pack tour (the Philippines!) but Mother Nature intervened and instead I spent an extra day in DC, playing in the snow with a real cast of characters.
Thankfully I was rebooked on a flight that got me there JUST in time for the first tour activity. The flight did have an 11 hour layover in Doha, an airport I’ve become very familiar with, and just to kill some time I went on the free bus tour of the city that Qatar Airlines offers. I already did this tour during a layover in December and not much has changed but the sites were far superior to those of the airport. 
Now, I’m finally here and ready for whatever adventure the Philippines has in store for me! (I guess I could look at the trip itinerary to see what that is but why ruin the fun?!)
I feel lucky to have had the opportunity to experience the country while it’s still seeping with raw beauty and history, literally everywhere you turn. It’s rare to experience the authenticity of a place (both the good and the bad) before the tentacles of tourism creep in and alter things. Kind of like finding that elusive ‘sweet spot’ time to visit Cuba.
We toured around bustling Yangon the next day and even had our first street food experience, which was delicious. Thankfully Josh knows the spots to try- not sure I would have been that adventurous on my own (and there were still some menu items I was not adventurous enough to try). 
We were up and out the next day, flying to the city of Bagan, of which I knew nothing about. This was our first experience with Myanmar domestic air travel and I soon realized that it’s really more like riding a bus than flying. The flight times are all “ish,” and there doesn’t seem to be an actual set time. Also, you get a sticker of a certain color, which is how they tell which fight you are on. And, you will almost always stop somewhere along the way, for just enough time for some people to get off and others to get on. It’s very efficient in that way, and they seem far more concerned with getting you there in one piece – keeping the eye on the prize… I like it. Doesn’t this boarding pass exude confidence? 
So, Bagan is Temple Central– I’m talking about more than 2,000 temples! They are literally EVERYWHERE you turn, giving the spot a truly ethereal quality. 
These temples are not new construction, either. Most were built between the 9th and 13th centuries and it is estimated that there were once 10,000 of them! Today most are just to look at and only a few dozen are restored and kept up. We went on a templing bike tour, which was a great way to take in the beauty of the place as well as navigate the dusty, rocky roads between the pious icons. It definitely could not have been easy to haul around the materials needed to construct these massive structures back in the day. I could barely haul myself around! (Luckily I could just blindly follow Josh).
We took in some additional Bagan beauty (as if we needed it) with a sunset boat cruise. I’m not sure pictures can really capture the beauty of Bagan: 
Next, we hopped back on the airplane-bus travelling to another stop along the route…a small town called ‘Heho’ (yes, the Naughty By Nature song was in my head incessantly). Upon arrival, we embarked on a breathtaking trek through the surrounding mountainside dotted with cabbage patches and, of course, a few temples. 
We stopped in one of the villages for lunch hosted by a local family, in a traditional two-room hut that houses their entire extended family. We could see the food being prepared over a single flame, and later we all agreed that it was one of the best meals of the trip. In true Burmese fashion, the village people were all super-friendly and seemed fascinated by our group (I don’t blame them- with representatives from seven countries, we were a motley crew). After lunch I enjoyed hanging out with three little guys, and despite not speaking the same language… it’s amazing how the common language of silliness brings people together. 
The next day we were off to an elephant conservation camp! This was a highlight of the trip for many, myself included (despite not having known we were doing this in advance- love it when every day is a surprise). So…the elephant situation in Myanmar is very sad. There used to be tons of logging taking place there and the country actually has one of the world’s worst deforestation rates. Additionally, there was gross mismanagement and corruption in the logging trade, contributing to the country’s ongoing conflicts. A national logging ban was implemented in 2014 and since then, the logging has decreased significantly…which has actually been a very bad thing for our elephant friends. So, the elephants were a critical component of the logging industry- hauling all the wood around, as elephants do. But elephants being used in this way are bred and used as worker elephants. Problem being that worker elephants can’t just stop working and go back to the wild. Doesn’t work. So, there’s a huge population of endangered elephants that are kind of left high and dry now that they aren’t logging anymore. To further confound the situation, there are unfortunately still some bad eggs out there- hunting elephants and using the majestic animals for personal gain (aka making money on things like elephant rides). It’s a sad state affairs.
Okay, so I have to say, there is something incredibly regal and captivating about elephants when you’re interacting with them, and especially when looking them in the eyes. The way they look at you….you almost feel like you should bow down to them. And, they just exude this wisdom- you can tell that they totally get everything that is going on. It’s fair to say I will never think of elephants the same way again… these animals are really something special. 
Our home for the night was an awesome hotel that was boat themed and the next day in true fashion we embarked in two water vessels for a spin through the waterways that make up Inlay lake, consisting of extensive “floating villages” and beautiful views. 
We stopped for lunch at a restaurant in a floating village, clearly trying to cater to whatever tourism comes through. And I clearly blended right in as a local.
Our home for the evening was a beautiful and rustic lodge in the very remote village of Samkar. Since we’d made good time, apparently, Josh was able to take us on a walking tour of the village (in the past it’s already dark when groups have gotten there). As Josh led us through the dirt roads and villagers came out of their homes to greet us, and the children running around seemed especially fascinated to see us. Josh spoke to a few of the villagers and learned that for many it was the first time they had seen light-skinned people. Wow. Somehow that possibility had not occurred to me. 
On that note, many of the women and children Myanmar apply a mud-paste substance called ‘thanaka’ to their faces. It’s said to be good for the skin, serve as sunscreen, and make their faces appear lighter. It’s almost impossible (based on my efforts- may actually be impossible) to find sunscreen in Myanmar that doesn’t have bleach in it, as their goal is only to lighten their skin. I wondered what the Burmese would think of the concept of a spray tan? 
We enjoyed a beautiful sunset and the next day boated on over to a town called Phekone, swinging by a few waterfront temples on the way. 
We enjoyed another beautiful sunset and the next day traveled to Pan pet village for another scenic trek (life is very rough). There we met some villagers, including women wearing brass neck rings…who most people have only seen photos of in National Geographic. So, in eastern Myanmar there are many women in the Kayan state who wear these rings (although apparently it’s far less popular than it used to be). The rings give the impression that the women have extremely long necks, but they actually just compress the shoulders downwards. 
Nobody knows for sure why these neck rings became a “thing”- explanations range from keeping evil spirits out, to protecting against tiger bites, to making them less attractive and less likely to be taken into slavery. A woman we met has four children and 8 grandchildren and only one granddaughter has chosen to wear the rings. She has until age 18 to decide if this is for good, because after that age you add rings and your neck becomes physically unable to hold up your head without the support. So, it’s a lifelong commitment. 
We headed back to Yangon the following day and wrapped up our trip with a bicycle tour of the town of Twante. We took the ferry to the other side of the river to get there from Yangon, a reverse commute to the masses of villagers heading into the city to sell their wares. Apparently the ferry was a gift from Japan and has been a life-saver for people residing in the villages. I can’t help but think that a bridge might be a nice next step, but I don’t see that construction starting anytime soon. 
In Twante, we cruised around the streets and stopped for lunch at a local establishment. We also visited a village pottery studio and I added pottery-maker to the list of careers that I will not be pursing in the future. 
I don’t know what happened…but somehow it was the last night of our trip, all of the sudden! It felt like we had just met in Yangon! We enjoyed a final meal together and reflected on all of the magic we’d experienced together. 
I was glad to be staying an extra day and I used that time to visit a Burmese photography exhibit in the stunning former headquarters of British colonial rule, the 
As I walked through the formally abandoned building, rich with beauty and history and packed with tourists and locals alike- I thought about why we were all there. We knew it wouldn’t be perfect inside, but it was somehow the imperfection we sought. We knew it had been the site of tragedy and injustice and tears, and we didn’t want those stories to go away or be glossed over. We wanted to see it, and feel it, and let it in… and maybe even let it change how we thought of the world, just a little bit. As I made my way to the exit, and thought sadly about going to the airport, I realized it was the magical country of Myanmar that had done exactly that.