When I last left you I was en-route to Borneo…wherever that is. I admit that when Flash Pack (FP) announced the new trip, my interest was piqued by the first line of the online trip description, “Our adventure through Borneo is not for the fainthearted.” In fact, my interest was so piqued that I think I stopped reading and messaged the FP co-founder, Lee, requesting to be the Chief Insider on the initial trip. And, he said yes! A few weeks later Keef Nepal got in touch, letting me know he’d confirmed his sabbatical (YAY!!!) and asking about my future trip plans. It wasn’t until we were on the plane headed there that we realized neither of us had actually read the full trip description.
I can’t tell you how much I loved that Keef Nepal and I were both going into this adventure blindly. I’m used to this but it can be difficult to find a compadre in winging it, especially one from the UK- those Brits take planning and prep to a whole new level. As well as gear… don’t get the Brits started on gear. I’m definitely not complaining, as this seemingly cultural trait has been of significant benefit to me in my travels. There is always enough “sun-cream,” “mozzie spray,” and assorted pieces of gear in the groups’ “rucksacks” to cover for the derelict American, who has not read the packing list (actually I’m pretty sure an entire brigade of Navy SEALs would be covered by the Brits diligent over-preparation). I digress but had to share an observation that has been building up over the course of my trips with my British friends. Love you “lot” lots!
Anyways, I was greeted at the Kuching airport by our guide, Paul. It was so nice for Paul to pick us up personally, especially since our tour didn’t start for two more days! Here’s my welcoming committee, at 11pm after a delayed flight:
We also met up with another member of our group, Beth from the UK (who was also on a work sabbatical) and the three of us spent the next day touring around Kuching, most notably in the random ‘upside-down house’ we stumbled across (also lauding itself as the first in Kuching!).
So, while Keef (who I already knew and love from the Nepal trip) and Beth (who I’d just met but loved immediately) were awesome-sauce, I wondered what the rest of the group would be like. As they trickled in, it became clear that they were not only very fun and interesting individuals but also clearly not fainthearted when it came to traveling (glad they’d also read that part of the trip description!). In short, they were my kind of people for sure. Hailing from the U.S., England, Ireland, Canada, Australia, and Poland, the group brought many different perspectives, as well as a common thirst for adventure… REAL adventure!
Following our welcome meeting with Paul and a delicious first meal together, we hit the road right away, on a kayaking excursion that took us to a remote village for a hot lunch. To get there, we “parked” our vessels and strolled through the water to an embankment that we climbed to reach the village, where we enjoyed the first of many delicious meals that were home-cooked by local villagers. This was a lunch we had earned and we loved every bite of it! Welcome to the jungle, indeed.
So, while we clearly dove right into things, let me back it up a smidge…. where the heck is Borneo exactly? And what is it known for? Before arriving there, I think I’d heard something about head-hunting in reference to Borneo and was pretty sure a season of Survivor (that I didn’t watch) was based there. As it turns out, Borneo is not a country but an island, and the island includes parts of Malaysia and Indonesia, as well as the tiny country of Brunei (yes, where that Sultan is from). The island is known for containing some of the last remaining true “wild” in the world with biologically diverse forests and tons of unique wildlife. And that is despite the fact that the country has lost a horrifying HALF of their forest cover since deforestation began it the 1980’s, mostly for timber and palm oil.
The city of Kuching was “discovered” by a Brit named James Brooke who arrived via boat in the 1840s and kicked off colonialism in the region of Sarawak. James is “the man” in Kuching, with statues and buildings in his name sprinkled throughout the city along with lots of cat statues, as Kuching apparently means “cat” in Malay. There’s even a cat museum, that I had zero desire to check out. 
Unlike some other former British colonies I’ve visited where locals are a smidge bitter about being overtaken by those pesky Brits, the Borneo natives we met throughout the trip expressed gratefulness for that part of their history. The reason seems to be that the British rule put an end to some of their ancient religious practices such as the head-hunting I’d [correctly!] associated with Borneo and virgin sacrifice as part of the burial tradition, just to name a few.
We learned more about the tribal culture in Borneo (past and present) the next day when we ventured off the grid and waaaay into the jungle, to a super remote village that is accessible only by an hour and a half boat ride (a super-fun boat ride I might add). 
There we stayed in a traditional jungle longhouse camp and visited with the Nanga Sumpa people of the local Iban community. (Ibans are traditionally known as a bad-ass tribe and are the ones renowned for the headhunting practices of the past.) Longhouses are their traditional housing and actually are long houses (go figure!), consisting of various rooms for sleeping but most importantly a huge (and also loooong) room where the residents hang out. 
Longhouses have such a great, communal vibe and we enjoyed some local rice wine with our hosts that night, presenting gifts of sweets we’d brought for the children. While the accommodations are extremely basic compared to Western standards, and there is no wealth or abundance, it felt so comfy and happy! All seems right in the world in a longhouse, and for someone who struggles with loneliness when I’m at my own house, alone with my Peloton, this was especially refreshing.
We spent the next two days long-boating through villages, stopping to visit a few long houses and enjoying delicious meals prepared by locals, using no traditional cooking tools (not even a stove, food is cooked in bamboo over a fire). 
We also embarked on a few jungle treks, learning about the lush trees and plants (many of which are used for medicinal purposes) as well as the many insects bird, and animal species that are unique to that area. 
A goal of our treks was to spot the elusive orangutan and we were lucky enough to have a distant sighting of the massive animal waaaay up in a tall tree, as he shook it forcefully from side to side. It was a much larger and more aggressive version of those I’d seen in the zoo. I actually felt like I could not be further from a zoo (both literally and figuratively speaking). And, as if that wasn’t enough excitement we also came across an incredible waterfall, that we were obviously not just going to admire from afar! 
We “roughed it” that night in our jungle camp, sleeping in mosquito nets with the moon and an incredible array of stars providing our only source of light (and the flashlight app at times). This was the perfect atmosphere for group bonding and we had many laughs in the most remote and beautiful of surroundings, that we’ll likely never replicate.
One memory from that night randomly stuck with me: Keef approached me, in a fit of hysterical laughter. It took him a few minutes to stop laughing long enough to share the source of his mirth… a few people in the group had been troubleshooting a complex problem (how to hang the mosquito net) and a flashlight was needed. Julia (an incredible woman who lives in London and hales from Poland) reached into the pocket of her jacket to produce… a lightbulb (at the jungle camp with NO electricity)!! Oh the irony! [Julia claims to have no idea how or why she had a lightbulb in her pocket and since she isn’t British, I don’t think it was an over-preparation measure and actually an oversight] It was hilarious full stop
The next day, as the longboats whisked us through the windy waterways and back to the mainland, I admired the final views and realized that I’d been tremendously impacted by the experience we’d just had.
It’s difficult to convey what this means exactly, but you know when a life experience has had a genuine impact on you and you know when you’ll take something from that experience with you, always. This was one of those times. I’ll never forget the little boys I stumbled across in the village who were having a grand time, laughing and running about as little boys do, and then I realized their fun was from having captured a live bat and tying a string around it’s neck to swing it around and eventually hang from a tree! No screen time to keep the kiddos entertained in these parts! I’ll also never forget Keef’s uninhibited laughter at Julia pulling a lightbulb out of her pocket and what that entire situation symbolized. Or all of the smiles and laughter among the locals living together in the long house. Sometimes it’s the little things that leave a genuine imprint on your fabric as a human being.
We emerged from the jungle to spend a night back in the civilization of the city of cats (Kuching, if you weren’t paying attention earlier). There we were able to do some laundry and take in the remaining celebrations of the Chinese New Year, while enjoying a waterfront light show that is quite spectacular (and they put on every night!). 
The next day we jetted off to Garang Mulu National Park, which is so remote that the only way to get there is to fly (or take a 12-day boat ride, so basically a transatlantic journey!). There we welcomed our accommodations that not only had electricity but luxurious rooms, comfy beds, and gorgeous amenities. Since we came all the way here we decided we might as well see what the National Park had to offer but I think we all agreed that we could have also been quite happy relaxing at the hotel pool. Now we are quite glad we ventured out with Paul as the National Park is phenomenal! We first took a walk through the jungle with our local guide, who pointed out various wildlife and unique plants along the way. 
It was exciting when a “stick insect” landed on Stephanie! At least it was exciting to us and our guide…not sure how Steph felt at the time (we learned they are harmless, btw). 
The National Park is also home to several huuuuuge caves and we started by visiting the largest of them all, Deer cave (seriously, this cave is so huge you could fit five of London’s monstrous St. Paul’s cathedral in the main chamber!). We learned that it’s actually the world’s largest cave that is open to the public! 
Maybe the St. Paul’s comparison was made to appease the Brits in the group, because while inside the insanely huge cave (full of stalactites and stalagmites of all shapes and sizes) the guide pointed out a formation near the entrance and asked who it looked like. It was a spitting image of Abraham Lincoln! That was very cool and unexpected (maybe not to those who read the itinerary more closely than I). Here’s Honest Abe:
After exploring another breathtaking cave nearby we ended up at a viewing area, where people gather to watch an evening bat show. 
This I did know was coming! Apparently most nights at dusk (weather permitting) you can watch 3 MILLION bats fly out of the entrance of Deer cave, on their way to fly around the jungle and eat insects all night (IMO, it works better than bug spray as there weren’t many mosquitoes bothering us at Mulu!). Before I saw it, I couldn’t even fathom what it would look like but it might not have mattered as Casey had watched a YouTube video and he was still just as blown away by the show. Almost as if on cue, at dusk the bats started flying out in waves, that increased in size with each one (about 20-60 seconds apart). This was clearly a well-rehearsed performance and those bats really stuck together, flying in perfectly synchronized helix-like formations (turns out this was so they were less vulnerable to the birds and other pray waiting for them outside the safety of the cave).
It really was sooooo cool! And to top it all off, Paul had arranged for hotel staff to meet us at the viewing area and set up a little gin and tonic bar, so we sipped on G&T’s while taking in nature’s wonderment. Ah….this was the life!
As if the excitement of the day before wasn’t enough… the next day was a big one, as it was our caving expedition!! I wasn’t sure about this, as I pictured myself spending hours squeezing through tiny cave openings but when I saw the magnitude of the caves and how incredibly diverse they were inside, I couldn’t wait to explore one!
We were outfitted with the whole caving shebang, including harnesses, helmets, headlamps and specialized caving guides which were critical as we made our way through the cave (which is a less-traveled one as it seemed it was only us inside). There was a lot of teamwork involved as well as encouraging each other along as we made our way through the ancient formations. And, we made it! This felt like quite an accomplishment for the group.
.In the afternoon most of the group explored the National Forest from the air, on a canopy walk high in the trees. Breena (who’s actually from Maryland, near DC!) and I were in the same group. As she bounded across the suspended bridges without a care in the world, I nervously followed, grabbing the ropes on the sides of the suspended bridges and grabbing (some may say clinging) onto the trees when we reached them. I didn’t realize I was afraid of heights (and I don’t think I am, officially) but for some reason this elicited some adrenalin for me (love a good adrenalin rush, though!). 
We enjoyed our final dinner in Mulu that night, reliving the days adventures over cocktails and laughter.
The next morning we were picked up by longboats and taken down the river, waving back to the friendly local villagers along the way, and we soon arriving at one final cave to explore. The Clearwater Cave is the longest in all of Asia, and while we only saw a small part of it, we got the gist. We then enjoyed a refreshing swim in the beautiful natural pool right outside the cave entrance before preparing to head to the airport.
I think we all expected the longboats would take us back to the hotel where the bus would transport us to the tiny airport, but alas, the longboats kept going down the river and deposited us AT the airport (literally), where our luggage had already been delivered. 
Definitely the coolest airport transport service I’ve ever had, and one I could get used to (next time I find myself in the middle of nowhere in Borneo, I guess?). Our quick flight took us to the waterfront city of Kota Kinabalu, where we stayed for the night before hopping on another flight… ready to be re-welcomed to the jungle. No rest for the weary in bad-ass Borneo!
A true welcome it was as we found ourselves on another boat, this time gliding through the beautiful Kinabatangan River, on a journey to another remote jungle location, and this one known for having the highest population of the island’s wildlife. Although we were in a completely different region of the immense island of Borneo (this region called Sabah), we were yet again about as remote as I could imagine. No shortage of remote jungles on this island! This time, however, we found ourselves at a luxury rainforest lodge that was staffed by locals from the closest riverfront villages (that were not that close). This spot is truly sublime. You arrive by boat and take off your shoes to patter about the dark wooden decks, that hover over the rainforest floor. 
First up was a delicious lunch on the expansive deck, covered with colorful flowerbeds and overlooking the river. We were then given our schedule for the next two days. It reminded me of the instruction during the epic safari trip during my South Africa adventure... which was pretty much, “don’t think about anything other than going on safaris twice daily, eating three delicious meals and relaxing in-between.” In the words of Annie when she first arrived at Daddy Warbucks’ mansion, “I think I’m gonna like it here!”
Our jungle safaris were of the river varietal and the relaxing included hammocks and boardwalk exploration (the safaris take place early in the morning and at dusk when sitings are most likely). On our first river safari we were lucky to spot a female orangutan who didn’t mind us observing her at close range for a solid spell. 
She was the only of her species we spotted on our safaris but we were both entertained and mesmerized zooming about the river during sunrise and sunset and observing lots of playful proboscis monkeys. (We saw tons of other monkeys but the proboscis were our faves.) We also saw a plethora of other wildlife… most notably some radical birds and the occasional croc stealthily lurking about. Fingers had to be in the boat at all times!
Observing and learning about nature and wildlife, real nature and real wildlife, has been such an amazing and unexpected part of my travels, giving me an authentic appreciation that extends far beyond that of zoos, botanical gardens, and the woods behind my childhood home. I get it now. I’m especially intrigued learning about all the amazing, evolved features that allow different animals and plants to survive and thrive in their natural habitats. It seems like everything has a purpose, a reason, and a way that it works. Only problem is when things like deforestation and global warming mess with an ecosystem that was doing just fine before. I digress…
After two days of jungle safari-ing, and a visit to a local riverfront village, our last stop before our last flight of the trip was a final hit of Borneo wildlife. First we saw a bunch of Malayan sun bears up close and personal at a sanctuary that is home to 44 of the adorable animals who are all rescues. Our last last stop was the Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Center which is home to over 200 wild orangutans (wild meaning they can come and go as they please but most of them seem to like it there). It was really cool to watch them play and interact, and especially how they maneuver around like gymnasts. 
Rob from London had an especially up close and personal experience when an especially bold orangutan laid in the path, apparently to lure people close to him so he could try to steal their camera, phone, or wallet. And that was exactly what he attempted with Rob (who, for the record, was standing a healthy distance away, not falling for the trap). I guess tourists aren’t so much of a novelty for some of these apes! Gabriella from Australia was there to help Rob fend off the thief and he decided not to press charges on the attempted robbery (a thievery ring, really!). Thanks to his street smarts, Rob survived the experience with a great story to tell and a super-cool orangutan scratch on his phone case.
Here’s how they try to lure in their victims and then a few grainy surveillance photos of the attempted robbery.
Jesse and I also got up close and personal with one of the resident apes but nobody seemed impressed by our story. 
Buzzing from the excitement of the past few days in the jungle, we returned to civilization once again. This time our landing spot was a beachfront resort in Kota Kinabalu, where we would be spending the final two nights of the trip. After some “roughing it,” we all enjoyed relaxing by the pool, with members of the group motivated to snorkel, parasail, explore the islands, and enjoy the on-site spa. I just kind of puttered about and took it all in. To each their own.
Our final dinner was epic and as we took in a final sunset over the South China sea it was hard to believe the sun was also setting on the trip. 
I was not staying any extra nights this time, which in some ways made it harder as I was envious of those in my group who would have a few more days together, but it was also easier as I could rip the band-aid off on good-byes all at once. Although I will say good-byes have gotten easier since I’ve realized it’s very likely that our paths will cross again. In fact, two members of the group have already reconnected and are exploring Cambodia together!
As for me, heading directly back to the States at this point was of course an option, but why do that when I could swing by and visit a friend from a trip on the way?! And this friend is a special one… 🙂 Stay tuned!