Namibia it is!

*Disclaimer- I know I promised to post more frequently and avoid long blogs. It appears that I lied. This one is long, but totally worth it- I swear! The connectivity in Namibia and an “issue” with my phone prevented intermittent posts during the trip. So you have it all in one! I’m sharing this for pacing purposes only.

So, back in December during my tour of Vietnam and Cambodia, one of my tour mates (Jacques from Belgium) mentioned he’d planned a trip to Namibia with some of his friends for the following year. That was the first time the country was on my radar, mostly because I sensed that Jacques and I had similar travel tastes and he seemed like the kinda guy who really did his research when it came to his travel. So far the strategy I’d inadvertently adopted had been fail-safe: blindly trusting the recommendations of like-minded friends who do extensive due diligence when planning trips. Otherwise it just seems too daunting… so many places to look into and where would I even start?!? Having become quite fond of Southern Africa, I wasn’t in any hurry to leave after the camping trip and I perused the interwebs for trips that departed out of Cape Town. Up popped a 12 day tour to Namibia! It was super last minute at this point and the trip was even discounted by 25%, so this all seemed like a sign. Since it was so last minute I couldn’t book the trip directly and had to wait for 2-3 days while the company checked if they could add another person. A few days later I got the verdict- the trip was clearly meant to be! Whatever was going on in Namibia (I only skimmed the itinerary) it would be cool, I was SURE of it!

Here’s a sneak preview of the verdict:

IMG_1237

Now, as you know I recently completed my NINTH tour with my favorite tour company, Flash Pack, and am a very loyal and happy customer. I like that the tour groups consist of like minded people in their 30’s and 40’s and everyone is a solo traveler. However, Flash Pack didn’t have any trips in Africa that fit my last minute schedule so I was (horror of horrors) going to doing a tour with another company, G Adventures. I emailed the Flash Pack owners, Lee and Radha, and let them know. I wanted to be upfront as it felt like I was cheating on them! Monogamy is hard, though, and I was kind of curious to see what another company would be like- as well as different group dynamics (this tour was open to all ages and people traveling together). I assured Lee and Radha this was just a fling and I did not envision a long-term affair.
I met my tour group in Cape Town at the Lady Hamilton hotel… the nicest thing about this establishment is its name. By far. Score one for Flash Pack- they would never have chosen this hotel. To be fair the price point of this trip was more in the bargain basement arena (especially with the 25% procrastination discount) so what did I expect? And I always pride myself on not being a hotel snob, so I’ll shut up about it now.
So, I then met my roommate (the lovely Evelyn from Switzerland) and the rest of the group that hailed from Australia, England, Germany and one fellow ‘merican. The ages of the group members ranged from 30-67 and we had one married couple, one about-to-be married couple, a sister/mother/daughter/aunt five-some, and four of us solo travelers. I liked everyone right away and our first dinner together included a lot of laughs. My favorite part about this group is that despite our different nationalities and ages everyone has a fantastic sense of humor and has no problem laughing at themselves (as well as each other.) Here we are!

IMG_7395

The next day we got started on our first of many bus adventures (we covered a lot of ground on this trip). Our guide, Jeff from Zimbabwe, kept us informed of various sites and landmarks along the way. Here’s Jeff!

dabd77a2-0238-4b04-bba9-d7c84e6bd9b2

That night we stayed at a guest house in the waterfront town of Lambert’s Bay. Jeff had mentioned a “seafood buffet” for dinner that evening and a few of us were a bit wary. Is seafood best in the buffet format? At least Red Lobster has to abide by food safety regulations… Africa seems more willy-nilly with such things. It turns out that our concerns were unfounded (how dare we doubt Jeff?) and the “buffet” was really more of a braai, with an assortment of freshly caught and grilled seafood at a casual outdoor venue. It felt like we were at somebody’s house and the experience was far preferable to a sterile restaurant.
The next day it was up and at ’em… land exit time!

IMG_7294

We continued up the coast to the Namibia border, where I was pleased they consolidated the passport stamp overlapping it with the one they’d given me while leaving South Africa. You see, there aren’t many pages in my temporary, emergency passport so space is at a premium. As an aside, Jeff said he has been through 11 passports and has a few currently in circulation as he knows some borders will “squeeze in” the stamps and others require blank pages (ahem, South Africa.)
Onward to the next day and the breathtaking Fish River Canyon, which is the second biggest canyon in the world (runner-up to the Grand.) I’ve been dying to see the Grand Canyon and haven’t made it yet, but am glad I started with the second biggest as the reverse order may have been anticlimactic (although I kind of doubt it as this was pretty spectacular.)

IMG_1192

IMG_1191

Our bus driver, the hilarious Barry, had commented that our accommodations that evening were like the house from the Adams Family. Yup, Barry nailed it.

IMG_7398

The place is just odd in so many ways, not the least of which is random displays like this.

image3

image2

It’s a small place (probably 20 rooms) and is totally in the middle of nowhere, yet when I asked the woman at the front desk about the location of my room she said she didn’t know. By way of explanation, she’d never been to the upper level….where half the rooms are located. I think she took offense when I asked why not… I mean, wasn’t she at least curious?? She explained it was always too busy for her to leave the front desk. I didn’t want to be rude and point out we were the only ones there! Here’s Barry, btw, guarding our chariot (I feel like you need a visual):

8ce53158-73b8-440d-b6fb-93b2022dc238

Anyways, we weren’t too sad that our stay with the Adams family was only for one night and we headed out early the next morning. Our destination was Sossuvlei (which is in the Namib desert) where we would be “participation camping” (whatever that is) for three days. The views from the campsite were unbelievable as Sossuvlei is a clay pan surrounded by ginormous, stunning red sand dunes. The dunes are actually the biggest in the world and are up to 984 ft high! With this backdrop the sunsets and sunrises are especially breathtaking.

img_8895

It turns out that participation camping means that you aren’t “glamping”… you have to do stuff. Good thing I’d had that camping refresher trip in South Africa last week! Don’t I look like a camping pro?

931e4d45-89bc-4d51-86e4-edea83a488c9

Evelyn and I were pretty proud of our tent set-up skills and we all dutifully chipped in to help with cooking, cleaning, following Jeff’s assignments, etc. And sometimes we just chilled out, too. The next morning was an early bell and we headed to Dune 45 (the many magnificent dunes are numbered) which is an especially spectacular dune that you can climb up, on the softest sand imaginable.

IMG_7442

01f64572-79a5-4a0e-8711-5a063d2bfed3

On the way up we passed many people coming back down the footpath. I kept wondering why nobody was running down the side of the dune, as that seemed like a waaaay more fun descent. Finally when we got to the top we saw few tourists flirting with the running- down-the-dune approach and once we saw it was possible- we were off!!

IMG_7450

We were all exhilarated and covered with sand as we made our way back to the bus. Our next stop was another dune, this one overlooking a dried up lake bed filled with gnarley “dead trees” from hundreds of years ago. There was another dune climbing opportunity here… up a behemoth known as “Big Daddy.” Some folks we met at the campsite had attempted the climb the day before and forewarned us that it was not an endeavor for the faint of heart. Undeterred, seven of us took off on the mile-long (and steep!) jaunt to the summit, taking in the views along the way. It almost looked fake, like a film studio backdrop.

4486295a-b354-46e0-b6fb-fbea91dac986

IMG_9991

IMG_9957

We all made it, though, and agreed that Big Daddy is absolutely an appropriate name for the dune.

image1

Here’s Evelyn and I at the summit:

df031081-5d87-4488-a079-a1c52c5775ec

As a reward we enjoyed the run down the side, which made Dune 45 seem like an ant hill.

0f957d5c-c9e9-482d-8a09-bc4529e6d6a0

According to Trevor, who timed my descent from below, it took me 3.5 minutes top to bottom (and I was running as fast as I could.) What a rush! My legs were just a liiiiiiittle bit tired (aka shaking) afterwards but it was so worth it! And at the bottom we got to enjoy the views of the dead trees up close and personal.

image3

We were happy to relax around the campfire that evening, worn out from the excitement of the day. We asked about wildlife in the area and Jeff and Barry said wildlife (especially those pesky jackals) have been known to take things from campsites, so we should keep everything in our tents or an animal might steal it. It should be noted that Jeff and Barry (mostly Barry) like to pull our legs and we’d fallen for more than one of their fables (Barry had also said he was a 65 year old ex-con with 23 children and that he spoke 13 languages- none of this is true). I woke up early the next morning to the voice of Dan, from the neighboring tent that he was sharing with his fiancé, Gina. “Um, Barry, one of Gina’s shoes is gone. She left them outside the tent.” Barry’s response was his high-pitched, infectious giggle followed by, “I warned you about those jackals.” Go figure! Gina left the remaining shoe, as a peace offering to the jackals.

IMG_1210

We took off on another long bus ride on another extremely bumpy road. Throughout the trip we’d been on some of the bumpiest dirt roads I’d ever been on and I was frequently bounced 1-2 feet in the air from my last row seat. I kept referring to my row as “first class,” and really talked it up in hopes someone else would want to sit there…but no dice. Next, we landed in the waterfront town of Swakomund where we had a free day to engage in thrill-seeking activities (or I guess just chilling was an option too but what fun is that?) I chose sandboarding, as it was the only one I hadn’t done before and it was a blast. It was also hard! I don’t see myself switching from skiing to snowboarding anytime soon but the sand version is great fun, and falling didn’t hurt at all (and I would know). Afterwards we got to zoom down the dunes on our stomachs, using particle board sleds. We were FLYING!

IMG_1116

IMG_1115

Evelyn (aka Swiss Miss) is of course an experienced snowboarder and she caught right on, even nailing a jump! She was, thankfully, not annoyed when our shower looked like Dune 45 following me using it later that day.
We were excited the next day to be heading to Etosha National Park, which is a featured attraction in Namibia. Here there was more participation camping, which we were old pros at by this point. This campsite had a bonus feature, though, of a watering hole that attracted an array of wildlife. There were chairs and benches lined up behind a (small) fence for viewing and it was like watching a scenic improv.

image2

IMG_1039

Here’s how the performance would work: there would be a “dazzle” of zebras (yes, that’s the term!) cooling off in the water and then some warthogs would enter stage left and butt horns with each other in the background for a while… then the zebras would meander off, the warthogs would chase each other away, and it would be silent for a few minutes. This is when many spectators would think the show was over and meander back to their campsite to refill their gin and tonics and show each other their pictures (that all looked the same). Amateur move, people. Cue the elephants to enter stage right and make their way to the foreground. And while I was busy being enamored by the elephants (no matter how many I see I’m equally awestruck every time)…how did that hippo get on center stage? The best was a late night viewing session, when I joined the tour guide of a group in a neighboring campsite, Rowan, for a walk to the watering hole (he had a hot tip)… and there we found pretty much every animal imaginable, all at once. Including some breed of rhino that is apparently an extremely rare sighting. It was one of those surreal-world experiences… there were two elephants literally feet from us and they were engaging in some type of elephant introduction ritual (according to Rowan) that involved interlocking their trunks. Totes adorbs!

So, I have to back up for a second to explain the travesty that preceded this viewing, just hours before. I’d hurried from the watering hole to use the campsite bathroom while trying not miss any of the performance and in my haste forgot that I’d popped my phone into the back pocket of my jeans. Ker-plop. UGGGG. Into the rice it went… I’m not sure why I still try this rice thing as it NEVER works. Anyways, due to the lack of a phone I had ZERO evidence of my midnight viewing of nature’s circus and I think my tour mates were only half kidding when they said they didn’t believe me. Thankfully we saw some neat-o sites on our game drive the next day, including a zebra crossing of HUNDREDS of zebras (dazzle upon dazzle) headed to a watering hole. 53f57000-b18d-4047-8431-439817d7640191272488-5fc3-48f0-af41-05650ad69603And my tour group crew stuck around for the late night showing that evening, to be rewarded with the elephant act.image1 When we left the next morning the only animal we hadn’t seen at Etosha was the lions, who (being the teases that they are) had made their presence known with some seeeeerious, and slightly disconcerting, roaring throughout the night. Jeff and Barry worked their magic, though, and as our bus rolled out we saw some safari vehicles pulled over to the side of the road…. sure enough Mr. Lion was out for a morning stroll in the woods walking exactly parallel to road. We followed along for a good 10 minutes and he didn’t seem to notice or care about our rumbling coach bus. It was the perfect end to our Etosha experience!
We made our way to our last stop on the tour, Windhoek, which is the capitol city of Namibia. Originally I’d been thinking maybe I’d hang in Windhoek for an extra day after the trip but I quickly revised my plan as I discovered that Windhoek isn’t the kind of city you want to dawdle in. I quickly booked my flight… or as quickly as I could using Namibia’s version of WiFi (v .001) and my first generation iPad that I’m sadly now reliant on for any and all communication. Friends, if you haven’t heard from me this is why. I miss you terribly! And I miss my phone too.
I was very gel-ass of much of our group who was continuing on with Jeff and Barry to Botswana and Zimbabwe (okay, I was mostly jealous of Botswana and their company… I’m good with Zimbabwe for a bit). The second leg of the tour was booked, though, and I tried to be a big girl and be nice to the interlopers who were replacing the four of us deserters. We had a beyond solid crew and I miss them already! 0597e799-8d8a-4296-a9a1-34208acc4023And, I’m sure they’ll all have a grand time on the second leg… I just don’t want to hear about it! (#earmuffs) Where I’m headed next is still a smidge of a mystery, even to me, so there’s a lot to stay tuned for!

Wild and Wonderful South Africa

How is my South Africa Flash Pack tour over already? This one really flew by! I left you half-way through so let me pick it up there. After our lovely stay in wine country we hopped on the bus and our trusty driver, Tauriq, zipped us off to our next destination on “the Garden Route” (this is the name of the 200 mile stretch of land we traveled along on southern-western coast of South Africa.) The Garden Route is known for being especially beautiful with lush vegetation as well as numerous picturesque lagoons and lakes (less water in these during the drought, though). We stopped a few times during the drive to snap photos at various look-outs and made one very important stop, at an establishment called Ronnie’s Sex shop. This place is really a find, and as you can see, in the middle of nowhere. As lore would have it, Ronnie had just a regular little shop/bar and one night his friend got drunk and decided to play a prank on good ol’ Ronster… a prank that involved a can of red paint. And… business boomed after that! It reminds me of that time when some of my classmates repelled off the roof of my high school to remove some choice letters from the the side of the building… transforming Beverly High School into Beer High School. Unlike Ronnie’s, unfortunately we weren’t able to get t-shirts to reflect the new name. We got to meet Ronnie and he was exactly as one might expect the sole proprietor of Ronnie’s sex shop to be, drinking a beer in the middle of the bar area that has people’s bras, underwear and t-shirts hanging from the ceiling and walls. Cheers to Ronnie and his business acumen… and moving on.We arrived at our beautiful accommodations in Oudtshoorn just as a spectacular sunrise was starting and we enjoyed it with glasses of more delicious South African wine. The next morning was an early bell to go observe meerkats waking up in their natural environment. I’ll be honest (as I always am- for the good or bad) that I didn’t think I knew what a meerkat was before this trip… but then was reminded of Timon from the Lion King. It was super cool to see the little critters emerge out of their burrows one by one as the sun rose and interact with each other, while scanning for danger and marking their territories for the day. As an aside, they sleep in different burrows every night so the “meerkat guy” (who narrated the experience and was quite the character) has a team of people who run around the savannah every day figuring out where the little cuties are burrowing that night. Here’s Meerkat Dundy in action: We then moved on to our next adventure… swimming with the seals. I admit I was a smidge skeptical of this activity- for two reasons. One is that I didn’t think of seals as particular friendly mammals who necessarily want me swimming with them. I wondered if this would be forced like an exhibit at Sea World. The second reason is the more obvious one- the potential for seals as shark bait. I put both of these concerns out of my head, however, in true Teha’s Travels style, and tried to go into the activity with an open mind and positive attitude. And… I loved it! We took a speed boat way out to an area where there are “rafts” of seals (that’s what you call a group of seals- who knew?!). We then plunged in (literally) in our snorkeling gear. I admit I had a minor freak-out at first, as seals were everywhere- swimming underneath me, next to me, etc. I quickly calmed down, though, as I learned that they are actually very friendly and playful (think Flipper, but a seal) and we had a blast swimming amongst them!And, I swear that one approached me to give me a high-five with his fin! After some beach time, we moved on to our accommodations for the next three nights- a beautiful spot called Hog Hollow. My roommate, the Fabulous Claudia from Toronto, and I were surprised and thrilled to wake-up the next morning with some monkey friends greeting us- like a wake-up call! We the headed to the beach for a surfing lesson that we were all very excited for and did not disappoint. This was my third time surfing and I was glad I loved it as much as the first two times… although I am slightly confused that in the three lessons I’ve had I’ve been taught three different ways to stand up on the board. Maybe different countries differ on their approaches? Next time I’m just going to freestyle it, I’ve decided. It was lucky for us that our guide, Jamie, is also a professional photographer in her spare time and took photos from the shore. She even made it look like I knew what I was doing! Our post-surfing lunch was a traditional South African “braai” (pronounced bry) which is basically a delicious outdoor BBQ. We enjoyed a delectable sampling of sausages, chicken, grilled veggies and salads. I was told by the braai-guy that in a “real braii” it’s all red meats and chicken is the salad, but we were quite happy with our menu (especially the vegetarian in our group.) The next day was one I’d been nervously anticipating for much of the trip, or at least since I’d agreed to participate in an optional activity… bungee jumping 600 feet off of a bridge (at a place where its claim to fame is being “the world’s highest bungee bridge jump.”) Yup, it’s pretty freakin’ high.I was SOOOO nervous for this but something in me knew I’d regret it if I didn’t do it. Throughout the trip me and my fellow jumpers (Christina, Courtney and Hannah) had been referring to future activities on the trip as “pre-bungee” and “post-bungee,” implying that we may not be around to enjoy the latter with the group (they may have been joking with this but part of me wasn’t). Here’s our before pic:Nevertheless we signed our lives away (literally) and made the long trek out to the bridge. There was some signage on the trail that made me laugh….this warning seemed like the least of my concerns at that moment. I went last and was so impressed watching my friends make the plunge and especially as each was pullyed back up to the bridge with huge smiles on their faces saying they wanted to do it again. I assumed they were putting on a happy face for me. Here’s the jump prep, where I’m clearly trying not to look behind the guy I’m talking to: Courtney had a Go-Pro that we were all able to use and the video of my jump pretty much says it all!

https://tehastravels.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/img_7813.trim_.movAnd, yes, I would also totally do it again. We then swung by an elephant sanctuary where we got to interact with and feed the majestic animals who we’d be seeing a lot of in their natural habitats in the days to come. Here’s Claudia and I inspecting their brushing:And this is a male elephant, believe it or not 😂That night kicked off a trifecta of birthday celebrations for our group… how lucky we had not one but THREE birthdays to celebrate, and in a row! Jacy was our first birthday queen, followed by Julie and Hannah. So many excuses to eat cake and we even discovered a shooter called the “birthday cake shot” that we taught various bartenders to make (it was only fair that each of the birthday girls should have them on their special day). Here are the lovely ladies we celebrated: We were off “on safari” the next day, which is something I’ve always wanted to do. Our destination was the Addo Elephant Park where we stayed at an amazing safari lodge called the Kuzuko Lodge. The way the safari thing works (this was news to me) is that you stay in a game reserve that is fenced in with electric fences, at a lodge (that is fenced in within the reserve) and you go out on three hour guided “game drives” two times a day (in pretty rad safari vehicles). The game drives take place early in the morning and around dusk as those are the times the animals are most likely to be out and about (they smartly lay low during the hottest time of day.) It was SUCH a cool experience! It felt surreal to be observing elephants, lions, ostrich, giraffes, buffalo, etc. in their natural environments (don’t worry, photos below) and I enjoyed learning more about them from the very knowledgeable guides. And I had a LOT to learn. This was evident when I decided to use the lodge business center to create “Safari Bingo” cards for some friendly safari competition. There were nine squares on the template so I included the “Big 5” of African safaris (elephant, lion, leopard, rhino, buffalo) and tossed in four more animals. The safari ranger loved the idea of the game (they may keep doing it!) but was quite amused to see I’d included a tiger as one of the animals. Whoopsie… guess they don’t exactly exist in the wild on the African continent. I feel like maybe I knew this but forgot? Alas, the next game drive I had revised cards to distribute (the ranger was kindly my Bingo consultant this time) and Hannah, the birthday girl that day, was the victor! We were told we were lucky to see a lot of lion activity on our game drives and even got to see them just after having made two “kills” of large prey… the circle of life, indeed. It was fascinating to watch the animals interact with each other and the various dynamics between different species and even within the same species (the “dominant” male lion, Sylvester, for example, clearly ruled the lion roost. I totally get where the King of the Jungle title comes from.) It was also interesting to learn about the survival instincts of different species and see them in action. It occurred to me how much time and energy human beings spend fighting our own instincts and how much easier life would be if we were able to trust our guts more. Noted. After two exciting days of safari-ing we bade farewell to our many four-legged friend and headed back to civilization for (sniff, sniff) our final night together in the beach town of Port Elizabeth. The group had become so tight during our two week adventure that it would not be a lie to say many tears were shed during our good-byes (don’t worry friends, I won’t name names… too many to name.) To give you an idea of how amazing and diverse this group was- there were two guys on the trip, and they really could not have been more different. Matt hales from Birmingham, England and is self-employed as a farmer. Neerav is of Indian descent and works in the finance industry in NYC. Yet they share the commonality of being two of the nicest and funniest guys I’ve met, and they quickly became best buds. Actually, pretty much the whole group became best buds! Fortunately by the end of the trip I’d managed to nail down some short-term plans for after the tour (you may recall at the outset of the trip I had none… and no return ticket). Luckily of my new tour friends, Katy, had planned an add-on trip to see a few more sites in and around South Africa and she kindly agreed when I invited myself to join her. Then our tour guide, Jamie, has a birthday camping trip near Cape Town planned with a bunch of her friends, that I also invited myself to join. Phew, things to do! And I do realize I’m lucky they were both too polite to say no to me. Stay tuned for safari phase 2, up next!

A one-way ticket to South Africa

I’ve met a lot of well-traveled individuals during the course of my adventures and have had many discussions about all the amazing places the world has to offer. When I started my traveling, South Africa wasn’t necessarily on my initial short list (I mean, assuming I’d had a list) but it came up time and time again as “a place you would love” by people whose opinions I trusted, and I decided I must see for myself. In fact, I was so confident that I would like South Africa that I traveled there with a one-way ticket, hoping that at some point during that two week trip I’d have an inspiration for what to do next. This strategy was all well and good until checking into my flight on Ethiopia Air when I was told I needed to show proof of my plane ticket OUT of the country in order to fly IN to the country (or so the ticket agent “thought”.) Having no ticket, I had nothing to lose by pushing back on this point and soon two supervisors were also leaning over the monitor trying to interpret the requirement in various ways. After some back and forth on the verbiage (they were on my side) I had an idea and said I’d JUST at that moment changed my mind and decided to make a “land exit” from the country rather than fly. I made up that term but it turns out it’s a thing and no proof of this was needed. The supervisor winked and said that was a good idea. Phew!

I read Trevor Noah’s book “Born a Crime”’on the flights there (great read and I highly recommend) and brushed up my South African history. I will admit that part of the reason for deciding to read over other in-flight activities is that on Ethiopia Air you can’t really hear the movie unless you manually hold the earphones in your ears and my arms got tired a few hours in. But I am really glad I read the book.

I arrived in Cape Town a few days before the Flash Pack tour started (my first time ever being early for a tour- usually I come running into the initial meet-and-greet with my suitcase, straight from the airport.) This was nice for a few reasons- I could “get my bearings” in the city, do laundry, recover from the flight, and adjust to the time change. I might need to do this ‘arriving early’ thing more often! Getting my bearings in Cape Town included a lot of exploring on foot and I realized quickly it’s a very manageable city to get around. The views throughout the city are SPECTACULAR and especially so during the sunsets. I immediately got a really good vibe from Cape Town and was glad the tour was starting with three more nights in the city before moving onward.

Our tour guide Jamie and the group of 11 of us met each other at our hotel (actually 10 of us met, as Jen was on an optional pre-trip shark diving trip- which she both survived and loved.) We all hit it off right away and I was relieved it was another group of fun, open-minded, adventurous and cool people. Phew! (You’d think by my 9th Flash Pack trip I’d be over that fear of a lame or annoying group, but nope.) That night we headed to the Camps Bay area for dinner by the beach to catch the first of several amazing sunsets we’d be seeing together. [Side note: you may have caught wind about the water crisis South Africa is currently facing. The situation is no bueno. The country has been having a drought since 2015 and water levels are critically low. It’s a huge problem and many water restrictions are in place across the country, with plans to turn OFF the water in Cape Town in a few months! This is called “Day Zero” and will disable the ordinary water supplies to more than a million homes. It’s a sad and scary situation- nobody here is disputing Al Gore’s stance on climate change.] Ok, back to the tour! The next day we started off with a spin through some picturesque Cape Town sites, including the Bo-Kaap, a predominantly Muslim neighborhood which was created by emancipated slaves in the 18th century and is known for its brightly painted houses. Next… it was up Table mountain, the aptly named mountain overlooking the city and the key contributor to the aforementioned stunning views. We were all looking forward to hiking the mountain but due to high winds, we had to take the cable car up instead. I learned that the weather is unpredictable and can be extreme in South Africa– and the winds are no joke. It’s one reason that almost as many people have died climbing Table mountain as Mount Everest (yes, I fact-checked this.) I didn’t really believe the magnitude of the wind until experiencing it myself at points over the next two days- at one point I honestly thought a woman’s stroller was going to blow away! Jamie said South Africans are used to it though and don’t need to grab onto trees like I did at one point, soon after taking this sunset selfie. Despite not being able to hike up the mountain, we had more than our fair share of excitement as we embarked on a rappelling adventure (South Africans use the British English term “abseiling.”) I’d never been rappelling before and was a little nervous but I loved it! I will say that despite loving it, while doing it my nervousness turned into full-on fear that lasted for most of the experience. Good fear, though! I always love an adrenaline rush. And, we did get in a mini-hike, making our way up the rocks back to the top after our rappel. Afterwards, we all said we’d do it again as we thought it would be less scary the second time (although none of us are sure that it actually would be.) And it was easy for us to say that as we knew there was no time to actually do it!

The next day started with a drive up the coast to the Cape Peninsula area, stopping to take in some of the most spectacular views I have ever seen. This is an area called “Chapman’s peak.” We had ocean paddle boarding on the docket that morning and with the wind being strong in some areas we wondered how choppy the sea would be. The conditions we had are best described as Class II rapids, maybe Class III in areas. This is only a minor exaggeration. Thankfully the paddle board guides realized that sending us out on boards would be more like surfing than paddle boarding so they adjusted the plan. Instead of individual paddle boards we used huge, group paddle boards and had a kind of whitewater rafting experience, which was a blast. I can’t remember the last time I laughed as hard as I did during this activity, especially when trying to stand-up on the board and trying to avoid falling into the chilly, choppy water. It. was. hilarious. And, there is definitely a chance the tourists on the beach thought we were refugees as we paddled by. We did all manage to stand-up at the same time- which is a minor miracle -and our adventure ended with a race between the two boats (my team won but no I’m not all competitive.) The victors: Afterwards, we got a closer look at the penguins on the shore that we had seen from our rafts (I mean paddle boards.) They are cute little things and it’s really cool to watch them swim- as they torpedo underwater like missiles, and then do this cute wing-flapping thing to dry off when they get out. And the coolest part is that it’s the female penguins out frolicking in the water while it’s the male’s job to sit on the egg on the shore! No doubt penguin dudes complain incessantly about this arrangement. After a delicious seafood lunch by the sea we headed onward to the Cape of Good Hope, which is the most southern point of Western Africa. It was beautiful (and windy, as you can tell from the pics) and we even had some baboon and ostrich sightings on the way. We concluded our stay in Cape Town with a trip to Robben Island, which holds the historic prison where Nelson Mandela was held captive for 27 years. We toured the island and jail facility, led by a guide who had been imprisoned there himself for five years. It can’t be fun for the guide to have to relive his experiences everyday but he gamely answered questions from the group, including someone who wanted to know why he didn’t try to escape. I mean… really?? This person was not part of my group, obvs. It was interesting to learn more about the prison and the people who had been held captive there for years at a time (with no indication of if or when they would be released). Their living conditions: The jailers thought they were being smart by separating the regular joe prisoners from the political leader prisoners but they ended up creating a situation where the leaders had years to plan for the fall of the apartheid, even drafting a constitution (haha, joke’s on you… that strategy backfired!) While touring the prison, the recentness of the fall of the apartheid really struck me and it was crazy to think that Robben Island was still a working prison until 1996. Despite the rawness of apartheid, so far I have found South Africans to be very open and willing to talk about it as a part of their history. They aren’t wanting to brush it under the rug and seem to genuinely want people to know the truth. That afternoon we took another stunning coastal drive to the beautiful wine country town of Stellenboschun (fun fact- there are more than 4,000 vineyards in South Africa.) Stellenbosch is a charming university town and we made ourselves right at home, enjoying a sampling of the delicious local wines at an outdoor cafe. The next day we hiked through the hillsides of the neighboring town of Franschhoek, spotting a few baboons along the way and learning about the unique vegetation that grows there from our hiking guide, Tayne (Wayne with a “T” he explained to us Americans.) The region actually has one of the most diverse samplings of plants in the world, including South Africa’s national flower, the king protea. Of course after our hike we had to re-hydrate and what better place than a local winery? At Grande Provence we took in the picturesque views, enjoyed a wine tasting (complete with a “nougat” pairing) and had a most delish picnic lunch. This is my kind of picnic! And, of course we’re trying to do our part to help with the water crisis. Needless to say, so far it’s been a phenomenal trip with a phenomenal group of people! I can’t believe it’s almost halfway over. That reminds me- I guess I should figure out where I’m headed after this… I never did work out the details of that “land exit.” Oh well! Staying in the country longer would definitely not be the worse thing….