As promised, here’s a delayed account of my trip to Croatia. Thanks to my tour-mates for sending me some pictures, as Apple is still holding mine hostage in the cloud (and I’m still holding out hope that one day I can negotiate a release…maybe when the political climate changes).
So, Croatia was never even on my radar until a few years ago when I went to an event at the Croatian embassy with my friend, Kate, who had travelled there and fallen in love with the country (Kate was on the cutting edge of the travel trend as I’ve known several people who have been there since). The event included a looping slideshow of pics and I watched it go through more than once, mesmerized by the beauty of the scenery. At the time I mentally added it to the running list of places I wanted to see “someday”…maybe when work wasn’t so busy.
When Teha’s Travels took shape and I saw that my favorite tour company, Flashpack, had a Croatia adventure; it was a no-brainer. Kristina and I travelled from Venice to Croatia together (you may recall we met on our Flashpack Vespa tour in Spain and ended up both signing up for the Croatian trip- thinking it was different dates but it turned out to be the same trip- yay!) Our adventure began in the city of Zagreb, which is Croatia’s biggest city, but still full of charm. Thankfully amongst the charm it also has an H&M, as both of us were thoroughly unprepared for weather that required anything warmer than a sundress and light cardigan. It was chilly and rainy when we arrived and we might have gone overboard with the winter hats…better safe than sorry!
We then met our tour group of 12 and our guide, the Incredible Ida. I quickly noted that we had an awesome and geographically diverse group, with peeps from DC, NY, Cali, Kansas, Montreal, London, Oxford, Brisbane, Paris, and Trinidad. It’s amazing how much we all had in common, despite coming from such different places- mostly adventuresome spirits and curious minds. Ida gave us a tour of Zagreb (the rain did not deter us), that culminated with a beer tasting of Croatian brews. Then the real bonding started when the whole crew ventured out to the local “hot spot,” a fantastic bar called Alcatraz. We had a great time dancing to maybe the most eclectic combination of music I’ve ever heard (I’m talking YMCA followed by Rage Against the Machine). By the end of the night it was as if we were all old friends. 
The next morning we checked out the beautiful cathedral in Zagreb and strolled through the bustling market with some of the most beautiful flowers, herb, and fruit selections I’ve ever seen. According to Ida, most Croatians go to the market everyday to get what they need and are loyal to whatever vendors their family has used for years. So, it’s a pretty big deal if someone goes rogue and decides the tomatoes look better at another vendor one day. Then our mini-coach bus arrived and whisked us out of the city. Most of us slept (Alcatraz was exhausting!) and awoke as we rolled up to a charming farmhouse in the mountains. We were greeted by the owners/cheese-makers and were treated to a delectable sampling of their wares, served with crusty bread, olives and, fresh tomatoes. That afternoon we hiked around the Plitvice Lakes National Park, which consists of 16 beautiful turquoise lakes (crystal clear!) that are joined together by tons of beautiful waterfalls.
Our home for the evening was a boutique “etho-lodge” (Croatia’s version of an eco-lodge) that was an expansive property dotted with cabins amongst wilderness views and roaming farm animals (goats and stuff). The lodge also has an obstacle course that reminds me of a wooden version of what you see on American Ninja Warrior (okay, maybe a smidge easier). Of course I HAD to give it a whirl and since nobody would compete against me, I tried to better my own time (when my competitive-side comes out…). Anyways, moving on…
The next morning we enjoyed a delicious breakfast buffet that included traditional breaky items but also some Croatian dishes, such as tuna and pinto beans. I have to say it was actually a pretty good combination! We then embarked on a “kayaking safari,” that we were all looking forward to and did not disappoint! Our fearless guide Marco (our ‘Polo’ refrain throughout the trip probably did get a little old) led us down the beautiful Mreznica river, with some stops along the way. Our first sa beautiful waterfall with three places you could cliff-jump, ranging between 20-30 feet. Yes, that is high. And awesome. And high. We found that jumping without thinking or looking down was advisable, as to avoid the instinctive response that was along the lines of “SHIT! Why am I doing this???” We all did it though (!!) and I took super-cool Boomerang videos of some of the jumps- you’ll have to take my word for it. The rest of the adventure included gorgeous river views and several 10-15 foot drops that Marco deftly helped us navigate. The trip ended with Kristina and I making the ultimate sacrificial gesture to the River Gods…our iPhones. En route to our next destination the bus driver kindly stopped so we could buy rice (NO, the rice didn’t work. Does the river ever work?? I feel like everyone knows someone, who knows someone for whom the the rice worked but I still suspect it’s all a crafty marketing scheme by Uncle Ben and his relatives). 
We continued on to Split, which is the second biggest city in Croatia and the main part of the city (and our hotel) was inside the walls of a humungo castle. The castle is a spectacular Roman ruin built in only the 4th century (with marble imported from Greece and Italy and sphinxes sent from Egypt). It’s massive, stunning, and a total labyrinth (I may have gotten lost once or twice…like totally lost). After exploring a bit, we sampled some Croatian wine and enjoyed a dinner of fresh fish (the fish is sooooo good in Croatia). The next morning we boarded a ferry to the island of Hvar, one of Croatia’s many islands, this one being known for olive oil, lavender and partying (it’s apparently the home of the infamous “Yacht Week,” that I may or may not have heard of before). 
In Hvar we first climbed waaay up to the fortress overlooking the island with panoramic views (don’t worry, I took pics with my trusty iPad!). Here it is in the reflection of my shades during my iPad selfie: 
We were then treated to a delicious rooftop dinner (more delectable fresh fish and a seafood starter that included an incredible octopus salad and fish pate). 
We then embarked on a beautiful 30 minute walk along the water to a private beach, where we would be spending the afternoon, having our own beach party. Unfortunately, we never quite made it there as the sun suddenly vanished and increasing winds quickly brought in torrential downpours. I have to say I loved that nobody in our group was deterred by the rain and our spirits remained high as we first sheltered in a waterfront fast-food joint and then spent the next few hours bar-hopping instead (I mean, what else could we do, really?). 
We even picked-up a new friend, solo-traveler Dave, who we met while he was also scrambling for shelter from the rain and he became an honorary member of our group for the afternoon. It turns out that Dave works for Sloane Kettering hospital like Andrew (another member of our group)- it’s amazing how the rain brings people together! 
We then returned to Split where we enjoyed our final meal together as a complete group- six of us were continuing on to Dubrovnik in the morning, via a ferry ride, with amazing views that topped the embassy slideshow.
In Dubrovnik, Kristina and I stayed in an Air bnb that I had booked originally just for myself, before Kristina had signed up for the trip. Upon arrival we saw it would have been fine for one person but two was just a liiittttle bit tight. The views made up for it though (in my opinion, not sure how Kristina feels about that) and we got a laugh out of the One Direction sheets on the bed (c’mon you don’t see those everyday!). And, no, these were not the sheets with bed bugs. 
The proprietor’s husband, Tony, didn’t speak English but was beyond helpful, seeming to sense what we needed at all times (carrying our suitcases, providing an umbrella, even hanging my laundry to dry). One morning, as we were leaving for the day and talking about breakfast, Tony was on a ladder trimming the grapevines that twisted around the trellises and he deftly handed us both delicious bunches of freshly cut grapes that we enjoyed on our walk along the water.
We battled some rain that day, that came and went with equal intensity. Our tram ride to the highest point of the city did not include the views it advertises, although I still took out the good ole’ iPad to take a photo. At the top we at least had some shelter inside the museum of the Croatian War of Independence, which took place from 1991-1995. What an incredible museum! The main exhibit featured Dubrovnik, as the city had essentially been targeted and consistently attacked during the war causing death and devastation of an incredible magnitude. I learned that during the war the Serbs had targeted the city of Dubrovnik, but not for any strategic advantage. The goal was only to damage the “heart of Croatia” and therefore the spirit of the nation. Sadly, the rest of Europe was not all that helpful to the country (which barely had an army and could have used the assistance- I think the exhibit said they had only one gun with a periscope!) and due to their lack of support the war is now seen as a black mark in European history. Thankfully, we’d learned in advance from Ida that the war is not something to be openly discussed with Croatians, and especially in Dubrovnik where the wounds are still fresh and very close to home to the residents (literally and figuratively). I have to say I was beyond impressed with the resilience of the city and all they have rebuilt after such incredible devastation; they now have a thriving tourist industry…as if nothing had ever happened. Yes, Dubrovnik lost a LOT in the early 90s but, amazingly, never lost it’s heart and soul. This really speaks to the strength of the people and the country. 
The Old Town area of Dubrovnik is encased by castle walls and that afternoon the skies cleared just as we joined other tourists to walk along the walls admire the panoramic views. 
During this quick transition from rain to sun, I was entertained and impressed when a Chinese tour group walking in front of us never took down their umbrellas and seamlessly shifted to parasol mode! After the walls some of our group went on a “Game of Thrones” tour to all the locations where filming took place, while myself and Nicole (the other non-GOT viewer) did some shopping and managed to find the “Booza bar,” which is located on the rocks overlooking the sea, outside of the castle wall and accessible only through a tiny (and hard to find) passageway through the wall. The views were especially beautiful in the late afternoon light. 
The next morning Kristina and I shared an uber to the airport before we parted ways. As we pulled up to what looked like a building in an office park I said “this is the airport??” Our driver replied “oh shoot, are you flying out of the other airport?” Kristina and I shot each other frantic glances before he started laughing. Those Croatians have a great sense of humor!
All in all, it was another brilliant Flashpack adventure (I’m practicing my British) and my first foray to the untouched beauty of Eastern Europe, rain clouds and all. I definitely hope to be back!