As I boarded the plane to travel from Istanbul to Bangkok, I thought about how glad I was that I’d embarked on this leg of my travels with both an open ended itinerary and an open mind. In fact, I had ZERO plans following my Flash Pack tour in South Africa, which ended on April 20. Here it was, mid-June and I’d had so many fabulous adventures since the planned portion of the trip… I’d gone on the most amazing safaris, viewed the spectacular Victoria Falls from multiple perspectives, went camping with locals in South Africa, explored breathtaking Namibia, finally saw THE DOLOMITES (although some unfinished business there), became a regular in Istanbul, bike/hiked/kayaked/bussed through Turkey, and sailed among the Turkish Isles. All experiences I likely never would have even thought to plan if I’d planned the whole trip in advance, and also all incredibly special experiences that I wouldn’t have wanted to miss for the world. I also thought about how it had all kind of naturally come about, as each “next thing” presented itself to me at the time when I needed it to. Of course I did a fair bit of research and asking around, but mostly it all just naturally evolved. My only job was to avoid freaking out about a lack of plans and (minus a few tense moments during #zimbabweforlife) I did this pretty well.
My last pit stop on the way (but not actually on the way) home was Thailand, with a new friend I’d met at a campground in Namibia… as one does. Rowan was the guide of another group staying at the same campground and he was friends with my guide, Jeff. If you’re a regular follower, you may recall he was the guy with the “hot tip” on when the most spectacular animals (elephants!!) would be at the watering hole for viewing.
Rowan had some time off after the tour and was planning a trip to Thailand. That sounded nice. And the planning was already underway, meaning less planning for me. IN!
My Thai fly-by began in Bangkok, which is a “big city” as I’d expected, and as had been advertised by assorted Thailand-loving friends. It’s funny as those friends mostly aren’t huge fans of the country’s capital city and the city is viewed as a means to an end (the end being the rest of the country). Despite low expectations, I actually really enjoyed Bangkok. I thought it had a lot of character (as far as those big cities go) and I found the people very kind and welcoming.
We started our first day exploring the floating markets, which would have been much more fun to explore if I had more/any room in my suitcase for souvenirs.
While floating around the market, I was keeping up with the Stanley Cup finals (ice hockey) in the U.S., as my home team (the Washington Capitols) secured victory!!! This was HUGE news in DC as the Caps have NEVER won the Stanley Cup before. For Caps fans it’s been an abusive cycle… every year we were certain “this is the year” as they looked so good, and they would have a great regular season and then the post-season would start and they would play horribly and our hearts would be broken. And then we’d forget all about it next season because they looked so good…cue pete and repeat. However, this year the cycle was thrown off when they actually did not look good at the beginning of the season, so it totally made sense that they won the whole kit and caboodle. So, while the floating market was pretty cool on its own, it is the fact that’s where I was when the Caps won the Stanley Cup that I will remember the most about it. Of course, I had a celebratory beer in their honor… it was the least I could do!
Next stop was the Grand Palace, which is located right in the heart of the city. The Palace is not one enormous building like you might imagine (definitely how I imagined it… more on that later), it’s actually a complex of buildings, pavilions, halls, courtyards, etc. that expanded organically over time. Construction began in the 18th century and over 200 years the various kings added on to it (and of course each king needed to out-do the previous king) and it’s really something else in terms of its grandeur.
Now it’s just a tourist attraction and the government completely moved out when an absolute monarchy was abolished in the 1930s. Okay, so, I need to be overly honest and admit the detail I just shared about the Grand Palace I learned after I’d seen the Grand Palace. Of course I hadn’t done advance research (other than to learn there is a thing called the Grand Palace that I should see in Bangkok) and there wasn’t much signage in English or brochures or anything with information about what we were looking at… or the history of it. I actually thought the Grand Palace was a singular, huge building inside the complex and kept looking for it! In fact, I asked a few passers-by where the Grand Palace was and got confused looks in return. Finally an employee explained “You’re in the Grand Palace. This is all the Grand Palace.” Ahhh… now I get it!
Located behind the Grand Palace is another grandiose complex, this one consisting of temples, named Wat Pho (also known as the Temple of the Reclining Buddha). There are buddhas EVERYWHERE in this place and according to one sign there are over 1,000 buddha images in totality (I did not count but that seems about right). The Reclining Buddha itself is pretty impressive and at 150 feet long it’s one of the largest buddhas anywhere. (Btw, “reclining buddha” means that buddha is laying on its side. Not in a chaise lounger.)
Another highlight in Bangkok was the Night Market, which was recommended as a spot where the locals hang out. I have to say, it’s pretty off the hook and is bustling with locals navigating rows and rows of vendors cooking and selling every food type you can imagine. The Thai currency is the “baht” and the exchange rate is about 30 baht to 1 US dollar. After much deliberation I bought summer rolls (a favorite of mine) and skewers of fresh shrimp and vegetables that they cooked in front of me. All for a grand total of 90 baht!
There are more established shops and restaurants around the Night Market perimeter, as well as a beer garden with live music. Despite my lack of suitcase space I found an item I HAD to purchase from one of the shops. Overall during my travels I’ve been pretty discretionary in my shopping and there are few items I’ve felt that I HAD to have. This board game, however, was not even a question:
I plan to bring it on a family vacation this summer and am pretty sure I’ll be Auntie of the Year, as my nieces and nephews (minus 6 month old Theodore) are ALL at the age where anything involving the word or image of “poop” is worthy of hysterical laughter. [Update: Yes, I proceeded to carry this game around to multiple cities, actually just carrying it in my arms at times. Eventually I got another bag for it and I’m happy to report is has successfully made it to the States].
Despite the fact I was pleasantly surprised by Bangkok, three nights was plenty and I was not sad to board a plane for a quickie flight the next morning, our final destination being the island of Khao Luk. Now, if Khao Luk sounds a little bit familiar it’s likely because it’s the spot that experienced the most devastation during the tsunami in 2004. THE tsunami pretty much decimated the area, which at the time was the fastest growing tourism destination in the country. There was also a significant loss of life and it’s estimated that, tragically, more than 10,000 people died (locals and tourists alike). It wasn’t until very recently that their hotel capacity is close to being back to where it was in 2004, but other tourism infrastructure is still struggling to regain the momentum it once had.
I loved this spot and would definitely go back! It’s beautiful and has a really chill, good vibe.
Known for its marine life, we had ideations of day trips to go snorkeling among some spots named the most beautiful in the world… but learned it’s not exactly peak season this time of year and most of the spots weren’t open (apparently the water is too cloudy to snorkel this time of year?). Between that and the Dolomites... who knew that mountains and islands could be seasonally CLOSED for business?? Definitely a lesson learned for Teha’s Travels! But this minor snafu did not put a black mark on my Khao Luk experience in the least. I found something just innately relaxing about the spot. And there are several places offering $8 Thai massages, which are just about the best thing ever. Did I mention I like it there?
In Khao Luk, we stumbled across a local live music venue, named The Monkey Bar, where we made friends and became locals of sorts. Between a super-talented Thai musician covering my favorite 80s and 90s rock bands (I swear if you closed your eyes you think it’s really Bryan Adams) and an assortment of games, including Jenga and Connect 4, it was perfection. I usually have to make an effort to lose when playing Connect 4 with my nieces and nephews but it was funny how after a few Thai beers the game wasn’t so easy anymore!! We also made friends (a lovely couple in a long-distance relationship from London to Tokyo) and we all got together again the next night, at the Monkey Bar of course! Why would you go anywhere else??
I admit I was a little bit bummed to be leaving tranquil Khao Luk for the hub-bub of Phuket… but I guess it’s good to leave a place wanting more. Now, I’ve been to Phuket before, but only to the quieter beach areas of Kata and Naiyang. My personal favorite is actually Naiyang and I’ve spent a few extended layovers there- it’s literally next to the airport and a hidden gem with a gorgeous beach, national park and adorable beachside shops (with a few massage places, of course). Hotels are super cheap there and if you ever have the opportunity to fly through Phuket, stay a night or two in Naiyang.
Anyways, all this to say that this time I was staying in the Patong beach area, which is the “hub” of Phuket, where all the “action” is. I was only there for two days and one night and did my best to avoid the action, so I don’t have much to report on… but according to new friends we met at the hotel it’s a pretty hopping party scene. Complete with a red light district of sorts and the “lady boy” scene (some people are into seeing these things as a tourist attraction and it was also a thing in Bangkok… I am not. Just a personal preference). We signed up for a day excursion to go snorkeling at two nearby islands, as apparently the weather wasn’t an issue in those parts. The brochure looked lovely and promised white sandy beaches and crystal clear, iridescent blue water! What could be more perfect?
That night we were at the hotel bar and a couple sat down next to us, clearly animated. The woman was trying to calm down her husband who was still amped up from having confronted the travel agent who’d booked the day trip they’d just returned from. He pulled out the brochure to show us and it was the same brochure we had! He then showed us photos on his phone…. of dark rocky beaches and murky, dark water. Hmmm… While Animated Husband was lucky to get 50% of his money back, it was even luckier for us that we ran into them and were able to cancel our journey for a full refund! No matter, I guess I’d have to explore the town, relax at the beach and get a massage instead (which is exactly what I did, as well taking in a spectacular sunset).
As I prepared to leave, I also tried to mentally prepare myself for a looooong journey home, but I don’t think I did a very good job. My flight left Phuket at 1:40 AM and I was connecting through Beijing en route to Dulles. I struggled to stay awake at the chaotic airport, especially as the flight was delayed until 2:30 AM.
I then boarded my five hour Air China flight, and realized quickly there was no in-flight entertainment… but no matter, I would sleep. I was dozing off when meal service arrived and I made the mistake of both accepting the meal and taking a bite of it… shrimp. I wasn’t feeling it and felt a smidge bad I had taken the meal, taken a bite, and was wasting it… but I quickly fell into a deep sleep. I honestly didn’t think of that bite of shrimp again until I was in the middle of the painful security process in China (you have to go through two separate securities, as well as customs, just for a connecting flight!) I thought maybe the process was making me feel nauseous, maybe combined with a lack of sleep. Um… nope. I’d never had food poisoning and now I know what all the fuss is about! I spent much of my 5-hour layover in the bathroom (as a bonus, I was in the lounge but the lounge bathroom was under renovation… the public bathroom required a walk through the food court, which is the last place I wanted to be anywhere close to). It was absolutely miserable. At least by the time I boarded my next flight I was certain there was absolutely nothing in my system. Speaking of systems, this time we had an entertainment system but I quickly realized the movies were mostly in Chinese, so decided sleep was a better option anyways. Hours later I woke up from a slumber thinking I’d put a big dent in the flight… and looked at the monitor to see the remaining flight time was 10 hours and 45 minutes. UGGGG. To make matters worse I was in a window seat with an adorable 5 year old boy next to me who, after much squirming, had finally fallen asleep but kinda nuzzled up against me and I hated to move wake him. To make matters double-worse, I felt HORRIBLE. My stomach was okay, thankfully, but I ACHED all over, like the kind of aches you get with a horrible flu. I finally carefully stepped over the boy and his father and started roaming the plane seeking some sort of relief… any sort of relief. Suspecting dehydration, I drank a lot of water but I needed a quicker fix. I soon realized that I seemed to be the only person on the flight who was not Chinese and I even had difficulty communicating with the flight attendant. I finally got my point across and learned that she did not, in fact, have Tylenol or any other pain reliever. With a silent sigh I moved on, to two woman who were standing in the bulkhead and it turned out that one of them had a son who spoke some English! After much back and forth, the translator’s mother dug in her purse and handed me a little packet of a white powdery substance that she described as a “Chinese herbal remedy.” Okay… that would have to do! Maybe it was the remedy, but I did start to feel better an hour or two later (THANK YOU LORD!!!) Despite this, it was the longest and most uncomfortable flight I’ve ever had. [I’m feeling my blood pressure rise as I’m writing this and quasi-reliving the experience!] Needless to say, I don’t see myself flying Air China again anytime soon… or at least until such time they’re that much cheaper.
So, now, here I am… back in DC. I’ll leave you with a mini-cliffhanger and not tell you what’s next. Stay tuned… I know I will!
At least they put me up in the Sheraton which is located just a tunnel away from the terminal. There I joined a room full of other Lufthansa passengers in a large conference room for our comp’d dinner of turkey and mashed potatoes. Kind of like Thanksgiving, and many people looked about as happy to be there as they would at their disfunctional family’s holiday dinner tables. Unfortunately I was faced with another snafu the next morning as we were delayed leaving Frankfurt and I missed my connection in Munich. Argh!!! I had a five hour wait for the next flight and took out the trusty old iPad to troubleshoot how I would get to THE DOLOMITES, having missed the one bus of the day. I mean, I could always rent a car. But I hate driving. But… it’s THE DOLOMITES!! And your options are veeeerrrry limited. Here’s what I saw of Munich- it looks lovely and I’ll have to go back under different circumstances. 
I FINALLY landed and set out to claim my rental car, dragging a lil’ bit from my 36+ hour journey at this point. The kind woman at Thrifty must have noticed I wasn’t exactly in the jolliest of moods and upgraded me from Bare Bones Fiat to Pimped Out Audi (to be referred to as POA from this point forward). Here she is: 
My mood buoyed slightly… I was off with a sweet ride! The two-hour drive to Cortina was beautiful, despite increasing patches of fog and rain as I got deeper into the mountains (on mostly winding two-lane roads). 
I checked into my accommodation and the proprietor pointed out the four restaurants I could choose from. He said they all close at 9pm as it’s a “sleepy mountain town” this time of year. Hmmm… based on Trip Advisor, I’d thought Cortina had more going on than this? And where were those mountains I was supposed to be able to see from my window?
The rain was really coming down now and it was already 8 p.m. so I motored to the closest restaurant, a pizzeria next door. There were only a few tables occupied and I was seated at a table next to another solo diner, a gent who looked about my age. I wasn’t sure how to sit as I thought facing him directly would be kind of awkward, almost like were at the same table, but with my back to him seemed rude. I compromised and sat at kind of an angle, half-facing him (which in hindsight was probably more awkward than either of the alternatives). I got bored pretty quickly sitting there by myself (and with no phone decoy) and soon we made eye contact and a conversation naturally commenced. Okay, okay I’ll be honest, chances are that I was the one who struck up the conversation… I don’t exactly have a healthy fear of chatting with strangers (as reported in the British rag, The Daily Mail, 
I caught up on some correspondence and other life administrivia that has fallen by the way-side and thank goodness for my Cortina boyfriend, as I would have really gone bonkers without Christoph (both for his company and validation that I’m not a total idiot for making this mistake). He had scoped out the adorable ski town during his time there, and toured me to his favorite spots (of the handful that were open). 
Gotta love an iPad selfie attempt! Christoph also speaks ‘nerd’ so we geeked out discussing things like China’s advances in the innovation arena and how this impacts their global positioning. The next morning brought some sunlight (!!!) and I could actually see the mountains that I would not be hiking. 
No matter, I hopped in my POA and headed to my ultimate destination- the mythical Ortesei. I spent the next 2.5 hours driving through winding mountain passes…it was INCREDIBLE! And included some extremely variable (and equally beautiful) scenery.
For the first time in my life I LOVED driving… a LOT. I think I figured out that my problem with driving in the past is that I’ve been operating average-to-below-average cars and have had average-to-below-average-views, AND have had to deal with pesky things…like stoplights and speed limits. Driving POA through THE DOLOMITES is a different experience entirely. 
It also occurred to me that when I’d booked my hotel in Ortesei I’d assumed there were only a few available because they were all full of hikers like myself, but I now suspected it was prolly because they were also still closed. And… I was correct. It was just salt in the wound when I learned that the mountains in Ortesei were opening for hiking the VERY day I was leaving. Of course they were! Regardless, I loved the family owned mountain lodge where I stayed. The views were totes amaze and they even had some footpaths where I could fake-hike. I was a happy camper.
It was pretty spectacular as far as fake hiking goes and I zoomed off for hours, happy to be moving after days of sitting (something I do not handle well). More views: 
After fake-hiking for much of the day, I took POA out for a spin in the mountains. That’s right… a drive just to drive, with no destination. Driver’s ed was the last time I did that! Then I was off to the airport, not sad it was 3.5 hours away and I savored my final moments with POA. As I drove I reflected on how my Dolomites experience had not been what I’d envisioned at the outset but it had definitely been an adventure and, all in all, one I really enjoyed! I got to make a few new friends, take in some incredible beauty, and, of course, there’s my new love affair with driving. I was glad the many snafus throughout the course of the journey hadn’t kept me from maintaining a (mostly) positive outlook and being open to whatever experiences presented themselves, as they were pretty cool ones! Next up… gobble, gobble!
And my tour group crew stuck around for the late night showing that evening, to be rewarded with the elephant act.
And, I’m sure they’ll all have a grand time on the second leg… I just don’t want to hear about it! (#earmuffs) Where I’m headed next is still a smidge of a mystery, even to me, so there’s a lot to stay tuned for!
I admit I was a smidge embarrassed showing up to the camping trip with my rollerboard suitcase and not a smidge of camping gear but the group kindly outfitted me with anything I might need. There was so much gear that we barely fit! 
And, not being the most experienced camper, even some things I didn’t know that I needed- such as the stake you put in the ground to hold your wine glass while sitting in your camping chair. What a novel idea! 
I learned quickly that Jamie and her friends are the consummate camping hosts – they are not fooling around. Jamie’s boyfriend Eric and his friend, Hennie, met in the Navy years ago and you can tell by the military precision they bring to the camping experience. They really think of everything! Hennie even had a kitchen gazebo that includes a solar powered refrigerator. I’ll be honest that I thought of camping food as either those freeze dried meals they sell at REI or spearing a hot dog with a stick and roasting it over a fire, so I wasn’t really sure what the kitchen would be used for. Little did I know what culinary delights my consummate camping hosts had in store for me! You may recall that on my South Africa tour we were treated to a traditional South African “braai,” which is their version of a BBQ (or ‘cook-out’ as we say in Massachusetts) and it’s also a verb for the act of grilling as well as the name of the grill device. 
Btw, there are no propane tanks involved in this process and the food is cooked over flame. Eric was Braai Master and was in charge of seasoning and cooking delicious meat items at every meal. I swear the chicken he made one night is the best chicken I have EVER had in my life. My mom is always up for a cooking challenge so I’m thinking of passing along the recipe to see if she can even come close. Sans braai I’m pretty sure it’s impossible, though, and I hate to set her up for failure. Here’s Braai Master in action: 
Eric’s skills did not stop with the chicken- we had pork, beef, sausages, crawfish (same as lobster but with no claws), BACON, and even sides such as cous cous. 
It occurred to me how much more of an adventurous eater my travels had made me (the Mopane worm included!) and I remembered that when I embarked on my first Flash Pack tour (last July) I listed in my profile that I didn’t eat red meat. Now the guides of my tours look confused when they see that notation on their spreadsheet as I’m gnawing on a rib right in front of them. Hennie also brought a cooking tool called a potjie, which is essentially a Dutch oven on three legs that is used as an outdoor crockpot, and made a delicious beef stew (called potjiekos) that included dumplings he’d made from scratch in the kitchen gazebo. I kid you not. 
Now I had also envisioned camping as taking place in the woods and was soooo pleasantly surprised that our accommodations overlooked the beautiful, rocky coastline of the Western Cape (as they call it.) It was absolutely stunning, and was punctuated by breathing in the fresh sea air and lulling to sleep to the sound of the waves crashing. 
So, I’m a big fan of having ambient noise in the background while sleeping and have an old fashioned “sound machine” at home that I’ve had since I was a little (don’t mock me, that’s been done already). When traveling I discovered the White Noise app on my phone and I have worked hard to find the perfectly pitched noise among the options (it’s called “brown noise,” if you’re interested). Nothing will ever compare to nature’s white noise, though.
You may have noticed that I did not list fish as one of our many braai delicacies and this was not for lack of trying. Jamie and Eric have pretty official-like fishing rods and we tried our luck from the rocks, using fresh mussels as bait. Jamie caught a rockfish right away (that we threw back) …and THEN (after catching a few rocks and thinking I had snared “the big one”) I reeled in a real-live fish! 
Some kiddos and their dad’s (our campsite neighbors) had joined us to view the fishing at this point. We all watched in anticipation as I reeled in what would hopefully be dinner. 
And then we all looked (with a combination of intrigue and horror) at the most ghastly Creature of the Sea any of us have ever seen! We agreed it was actually the ugliest fish alive- some kind of bottom feeder with creepy teeth. 
Back to the sea you go! We’ll stick with meat, thanks very much.
My favorite part of the camping trip, though, was sitting around the fire talking with the group and new friends we met at the campground. 
It was fascinating to learn more about South Africa and the locals’ perspectives on their history, the current political climate and the culture in general. From what I gathered the government can be summed up in one word- corrupt. All the South Africans I met agreed that it was a very good thing that Jacob Zuma was finally forced out as President (having remained in power through countless charges of crimes including corruption and rape, and nine votes of no confidence by Parliament… it was finally his own party who drove him out.) And while people don’t seem totally psyched about the new guy (Cyril Ramaphosa) their relief is palpable that at least Zuma is gone and there is a glimmer of hope for the future. For his part, Ramaphosa has vowed to tackle the government’s corruption issues, so that’s something, in as at least it’s admitting the issues exist. And with the nation’s economy in the tanker and a 30% unemployment rate the stakes are high as the nation seeks to project stability and encourage investment dollars. Interesting times here in South Africa and a lot of questions about what the future will bring.
We stopped a few times during the drive to snap photos at various look-outs and made one very important stop, at an establishment called Ronnie’s Sex shop. 
This place is really a find, and as you can see, in the middle of nowhere. As lore would have it, Ronnie had just a regular little shop/bar and one night his friend got drunk and decided to play a prank on good ol’ Ronster… a prank that involved a can of red paint. And… business boomed after that! It reminds me of that time when some of my classmates repelled off the roof of my high school to remove some choice letters from the the side of the building… transforming Beverly High School into Beer High School. Unlike Ronnie’s, unfortunately we weren’t able to get t-shirts to reflect the new name. 
We got to meet Ronnie and he was exactly as one might expect the sole proprietor of Ronnie’s sex shop to be, drinking a beer in the middle of the bar area that has people’s bras, underwear and t-shirts hanging from the ceiling and walls. Cheers to Ronnie and his business acumen… and moving on.
We arrived at our beautiful accommodations in Oudtshoorn just as a spectacular sunrise was starting and we enjoyed it with glasses of more delicious South African wine. 
The next morning was an early bell to go observe meerkats waking up in their natural environment. I’ll be honest (as I always am- for the good or bad) that I didn’t think I knew what a meerkat was before this trip… but then was reminded of Timon from the Lion King. It was super cool to see the little critters emerge out of their burrows one by one as the sun rose and interact with each other, while scanning for danger and marking their territories for the day. 
As an aside, they sleep in different burrows every night so the “meerkat guy” (who narrated the experience and was quite the character) has a team of people who run around the savannah every day figuring out where the little cuties are burrowing that night. Here’s Meerkat Dundy in action: 
We then moved on to our next adventure… swimming with the seals. I admit I was a smidge skeptical of this activity- for two reasons. One is that I didn’t think of seals as particular friendly mammals who necessarily want me swimming with them. I wondered if this would be forced like an exhibit at Sea World. The second reason is the more obvious one- the potential for seals as shark bait. I put both of these concerns out of my head, however, in true Teha’s Travels style, and tried to go into the activity with an open mind and positive attitude. And… I loved it! We took a speed boat way out to an area where there are “rafts” of seals (that’s what you call a group of seals- who knew?!). We then plunged in (literally) in our snorkeling gear. I admit I had a minor freak-out at first, as seals were everywhere- swimming underneath me, next to me, etc. I quickly calmed down, though, as I learned that they are actually very friendly and playful (think Flipper, but a seal) and we had a blast swimming amongst them!
And, I swear that one approached me to give me a high-five with his fin! 
After some beach time, we moved on to our accommodations for the next three nights- a beautiful spot called Hog Hollow. My roommate, the Fabulous Claudia from Toronto, and I were surprised and thrilled to wake-up the next morning with some monkey friends greeting us- like a wake-up call! 
We the headed to the beach for a surfing lesson that we were all very excited for and did not disappoint. 
This was my third time surfing and I was glad I loved it as much as the first two times… although I am slightly confused that in the three lessons I’ve had I’ve been taught three different ways to stand up on the board. Maybe different countries differ on their approaches? Next time I’m just going to freestyle it, I’ve decided. It was lucky for us that our guide, Jamie, is also a professional photographer in her spare time and took photos from the shore. She even made it look like I knew what I was doing! 
Our post-surfing lunch was a traditional South African “braai” (pronounced bry) which is basically a delicious outdoor BBQ. We enjoyed a delectable sampling of sausages, chicken, grilled veggies and salads. I was told by the braai-guy that in a “real braii” it’s all red meats and chicken is the salad, but we were quite happy with our menu (especially the vegetarian in our group.) 
The next day was one I’d been nervously anticipating for much of the trip, or at least since I’d agreed to participate in an optional activity… bungee jumping 600 feet off of a bridge (at a place where its claim to fame is being “the world’s highest bungee bridge jump.”) Yup, it’s pretty freakin’ high.
I was SOOOO nervous for this but something in me knew I’d regret it if I didn’t do it. Throughout the trip me and my fellow jumpers (Christina, Courtney and Hannah) had been referring to future activities on the trip as “pre-bungee” and “post-bungee,” implying that we may not be around to enjoy the latter with the group (they may have been joking with this but part of me wasn’t). Here’s our before pic:
Nevertheless we signed our lives away (literally) and made the long trek out to the bridge. There was some signage on the trail that made me laugh….this warning seemed like the least of my concerns at that moment. 
I went last and was so impressed watching my friends make the plunge and especially as each was pullyed back up to the bridge with huge smiles on their faces saying they wanted to do it again. I assumed they were putting on a happy face for me. Here’s the jump prep, where I’m clearly trying not to look behind the guy I’m talking to: 
Courtney had a Go-Pro that we were all able to use and the video of my jump pretty much says it all!
We then swung by an elephant sanctuary where we got to interact with and feed the majestic animals who we’d be seeing a lot of in their natural habitats in the days to come. 
Here’s Claudia and I inspecting their brushing:
And this is a male elephant, believe it or not 😂
That night kicked off a trifecta of birthday celebrations for our group… how lucky we had not one but THREE birthdays to celebrate, and in a row! Jacy was our first birthday queen, followed by Julie and Hannah. So many excuses to eat cake and we even discovered a shooter called the “birthday cake shot” that we taught various bartenders to make (it was only fair that each of the birthday girls should have them on their special day). Here are the lovely ladies we celebrated: 
We were off “on safari” the next day, which is something I’ve always wanted to do. Our destination was the Addo Elephant Park where we stayed at an amazing safari lodge called the Kuzuko Lodge. The way the safari thing works (this was news to me) is that you stay in a game reserve that is fenced in with electric fences, at a lodge (that is fenced in within the reserve) and you go out on three hour guided “game drives” two times a day (in pretty rad safari vehicles). 
The game drives take place early in the morning and around dusk as those are the times the animals are most likely to be out and about (they smartly lay low during the hottest time of day.) It was SUCH a cool experience! 
It felt surreal to be observing elephants, lions, ostrich, giraffes, buffalo, etc. in their natural environments (don’t worry, photos below) and I enjoyed learning more about them from the very knowledgeable guides. And I had a LOT to learn. This was evident when I decided to use the lodge business center to create “Safari Bingo” cards for some friendly safari competition. There were nine squares on the template so I included the “Big 5” of African safaris (elephant, lion, leopard, rhino, buffalo) and tossed in four more animals. The safari ranger loved the idea of the game (they may keep doing it!) but was quite amused to see I’d included a tiger as one of the animals. Whoopsie… guess they don’t exactly exist in the wild on the African continent. I feel like maybe I knew this but forgot? Alas, the next game drive I had revised cards to distribute (the ranger was kindly my Bingo consultant this time) and Hannah, the birthday girl that day, was the victor! 
We were told we were lucky to see a lot of lion activity on our game drives and even got to see them just after having made two “kills” of large prey… the circle of life, indeed. 
It was fascinating to watch the animals interact with each other and the various dynamics between different species and even within the same species (the “dominant” male lion, Sylvester, for example, clearly ruled the lion roost. I totally get where the King of the Jungle title comes from.) 
It was also interesting to learn about the survival instincts of different species and see them in action. It occurred to me how much time and energy human beings spend fighting our own instincts and how much easier life would be if we were able to trust our guts more. Noted. 
After two exciting days of safari-ing we bade farewell to our many four-legged friend and headed back to civilization for (sniff, sniff) our final night together in the beach town of Port Elizabeth. The group had become so tight during our two week adventure that it would not be a lie to say many tears were shed during our good-byes (don’t worry friends, I won’t name names… too many to name.) 
To give you an idea of how amazing and diverse this group was- there were two guys on the trip, and they really could not have been more different. Matt hales from Birmingham, England and is self-employed as a farmer. Neerav is of Indian descent and works in the finance industry in NYC. Yet they share the commonality of being two of the nicest and funniest guys I’ve met, and they quickly became best buds. Actually, pretty much the whole group became best buds! 
Fortunately by the end of the trip I’d managed to nail down some short-term plans for after the tour (you may recall at the outset of the trip I had none… and no return ticket). Luckily of my new tour friends, Katy, had planned an add-on trip to see a few more sites in and around South Africa and she kindly agreed when I invited myself to join her. Then our tour guide, Jamie, has a birthday camping trip near Cape Town planned with a bunch of her friends, that I also invited myself to join. Phew, things to do! And I do realize I’m lucky they were both too polite to say no to me. Stay tuned for safari phase 2, up next!
I immediately got a really good vibe from Cape Town and was glad the tour was starting with three more nights in the city before moving onward.
That night we headed to the Camps Bay area for dinner by the beach to catch the first of several amazing sunsets we’d be seeing together. 
[Side note: you may have caught wind about the water crisis South Africa is currently facing. The situation is no bueno. The country has been having a drought since 2015 and water levels are critically low. It’s a huge problem and many water restrictions are in place across the country, with plans to turn OFF the water in Cape Town in a few months! This is called “Day Zero” and will disable the ordinary water supplies to more than a million homes. It’s a sad and scary situation- nobody here is disputing Al Gore’s stance on climate change.] 
Ok, back to the tour! The next day we started off with a spin through some picturesque Cape Town sites, including the Bo-Kaap, a predominantly Muslim neighborhood which was created by emancipated slaves in the 18th century and is known for its brightly painted houses. 
Next… it was up Table mountain, the aptly named mountain overlooking the city and the key contributor to the aforementioned stunning views. 
We were all looking forward to hiking the mountain but due to high winds, we had to take the cable car up instead. I learned that the weather is unpredictable and can be extreme in South Africa– and the winds are no joke. It’s one reason that almost as many people have died climbing Table mountain as Mount Everest (yes, I fact-checked this.) I didn’t really believe the magnitude of the wind until experiencing it myself at points over the next two days- at one point I honestly thought a woman’s stroller was going to blow away! Jamie said South Africans are used to it though and don’t need to grab onto trees like I did at one point, soon after taking this sunset selfie. 
Despite not being able to hike up the mountain, we had more than our fair share of excitement as we embarked on a rappelling adventure (South Africans use the British English term “abseiling.”) I’d never been rappelling before and was a little nervous but I loved it! I will say that despite loving it, while doing it my nervousness turned into full-on fear that lasted for most of the experience. Good fear, though! I always love an adrenaline rush. 
And, we did get in a mini-hike, making our way up the rocks back to the top after our rappel. 
Afterwards, we all said we’d do it again as we thought it would be less scary the second time (although none of us are sure that it actually would be.) And it was easy for us to say that as we knew there was no time to actually do it!
We had ocean paddle boarding on the docket that morning and with the wind being strong in some areas we wondered how choppy the sea would be. The conditions we had are best described as Class II rapids, maybe Class III in areas. This is only a minor exaggeration. Thankfully the paddle board guides realized that sending us out on boards would be more like surfing than paddle boarding so they adjusted the plan. Instead of individual paddle boards we used huge, group paddle boards and had a kind of whitewater rafting experience, which was a blast. 
I can’t remember the last time I laughed as hard as I did during this activity, especially when trying to stand-up on the board and trying to avoid falling into the chilly, choppy water. It. was. hilarious. 
And, there is definitely a chance the tourists on the beach thought we were refugees as we paddled by. 
We did all manage to stand-up at the same time- which is a minor miracle -and our adventure ended with a race between the two boats (my team won but no I’m not all competitive.) The victors: 
Afterwards, we got a closer look at the penguins on the shore that we had seen from our rafts (I mean paddle boards.) They are cute little things and it’s really cool to watch them swim- as they torpedo underwater like missiles, and then do this cute wing-flapping thing to dry off when they get out. 
And the coolest part is that it’s the female penguins out frolicking in the water while it’s the male’s job to sit on the egg on the shore! No doubt penguin dudes complain incessantly about this arrangement. 
After a delicious seafood lunch by the sea we headed onward to the Cape of Good Hope, which is the most southern point of Western Africa. It was beautiful (and windy, as you can tell from the pics) and we even had some baboon and ostrich sightings on the way. 
We concluded our stay in Cape Town with a trip to Robben Island, which holds the historic prison where Nelson Mandela was held captive for 27 years. We toured the island and jail facility, led by a guide who had been imprisoned there himself for five years. It can’t be fun for the guide to have to relive his experiences everyday but he gamely answered questions from the group, including someone who wanted to know why he didn’t try to escape. I mean… really?? This person was not part of my group, obvs. 
It was interesting to learn more about the prison and the people who had been held captive there for years at a time (with no indication of if or when they would be released). Their living conditions: 
The jailers thought they were being smart by separating the regular joe prisoners from the political leader prisoners but they ended up creating a situation where the leaders had years to plan for the fall of the apartheid, even drafting a constitution (haha, joke’s on you… that strategy backfired!) While touring the prison, the recentness of the fall of the apartheid really struck me and it was crazy to think that Robben Island was still a working prison until 1996. Despite the rawness of apartheid, so far I have found South Africans to be very open and willing to talk about it as a part of their history. They aren’t wanting to brush it under the rug and seem to genuinely want people to know the truth. 
That afternoon we took another stunning coastal drive to the beautiful wine country town of Stellenboschun (fun fact- there are more than 4,000 vineyards in South Africa.) Stellenbosch is a charming university town and we made ourselves right at home, enjoying a sampling of the delicious local wines at an outdoor cafe. The next day we hiked through the hillsides of the neighboring town of Franschhoek, spotting a few baboons along the way and learning about the unique vegetation that grows there from our hiking guide, Tayne (Wayne with a “T” he explained to us Americans.) 
The region actually has one of the most diverse samplings of plants in the world, including South Africa’s national flower, the king protea. 
Of course after our hike we had to re-hydrate and what better place than a local winery? 
At Grande Provence we took in the picturesque views, enjoyed a wine tasting (complete with a “nougat” pairing) and had a most delish picnic lunch. This is my kind of picnic! 
And, of course we’re trying to do our part to help with the water crisis. 
Needless to say, so far it’s been a phenomenal trip with a phenomenal group of people! I can’t believe it’s almost halfway over. That reminds me- I guess I should figure out where I’m headed after this… I never did work out the details of that “land exit.” Oh well! Staying in the country longer would definitely not be the worse thing….
Moving on-ish…the mystery flight out of El Nido (that was only a mystery to me) took us to beautiful Bohol. Bryan Not-Adams had the not-so-easy task of herding our group of 13 through the airport…but we made it and were greeted with adorable little monkey necklaces. 
We were taken to our home for the next three nights, a 
And here’s our first glimpse of our latest slice of the paradise pie that this country is. 
That night we enjoyed more fresh seafood at one of the many restaurants on the beachfront that our hotel overlooks. Since it was the night before Easter the beach was packed with revelers and we even got a fireworks display (which Bryan took complete credit for arranging). I hadn’t realized that the Philippines is 80% Catholic, so obviously Easter and everything around it is a huge deal and we saw many festive celebrations throughout the week. 
The next day (Easter Sunday) we were off on our next adventure- exploring the “Chocolate Hills” that Bohol is known for. I’m used to chocolate on Easter but this was even better! The Chocolate Hills are scattered throughout a 20-square mile area and are these cone shaped mini-mountains (100 to 400 feet tall) that are apparently a geological anomaly. They are a luscious green color in the rainy season but brown in the dry season (when the grass dies and the mud that forms them is exposed), hence their name. We started our exploration of said hills with an aerial view from a viewing area. 
Once we had our bearings, we got down and dirty with our hills exploration, cruising through them on ATV’s.
This was a BLAST and we all finished absolutely covered in “chocolate” (I wish!).
Part way through our journey we stopped to hike up one of the hills and take in more views. 
We also saw many interesting sites along the way, such as this Easter dinner prep.
Some minor excitement when Fi’s ATV stalled while cruising through some water but our guides troubleshooted quickly and we were on our way. 
We rinsed off as much of the mud as we could before heading to our next destination- the Tarsier Sanctuary. So, I’d never heard of a tarsier either, but they are adorable little monkeys who are native to the Philippines. They are so tiny that they could fit in the palm of your hand and they look like little Yodas! They actually have the largest eyes relative to body size of any mammal and their eyes are the same size as their brain (random tarsier factoid). And, because their eyes are so big they can’t rotate them, so instead their neck can turn 180 degrees in each direction! Despite this exorcist-like party trick, tarsiers are sensitive little creatures, and they like their silence and darkness while sleeping (who doesn’t, right?). But apparently, while in captivity, light from camera flashes and noise can make tarsiers commit suicide! We carefully creapt through the sanctuary, pointing and snapping a few flash-less pics of the cute little buggers- hoping they wouldn’t off themselves on our watch. 
Tarsiers are sadly an endangered species with the numbers continuing to plummet. This is because they require a specific habitat with certain vegetation and lots of insects to eat, which is harder and harder to come by. The Philippine Tarsier Foundation runs the sanctuary we visited and looks after about 100 of the adorable little creatures. Needless to say, we all fell in-love.
Back at the resort, we relaxed by the pool and took in a stunning sunset before enjoying another beachfront meal. Life continues to be a struggle!
The next day was a BIG one…my birthday!!! While I wasn’t exactly psyched about this birthday rolling around, I could not have asked for a better one and I want to thank my 13 new, super-awesome friends for making it so special! They even made me card and wrapping paper- using printer paper, colored pencils and staples. So industrious! And, yes, there were presents! Sneaky Fiona even got me a tank top I’d been eyeing at a shop in El Nido, after she’d convinced me not to buy it. 
I spent my birthday morning paddle boarding down the gorgeous Loboc River, that is lined with palm trees and other luscious vegetation. We stopped along the way to use a rope swing and try various challenges presented by our guides. Cristina won the “balancing on one foot contest,” with an extremely impressive 21 seconds! I didn’t trust my phone dry bag to keep my phone dry (learned that lesson in Croatia), so unfortunately there are no photos to prove any of this actually happened. You’ll have to take my word for it!
So, if you’ve followed my blog at all (or if you know me at all) you know that “relaxing” is not exactly my area of expertise (at least in the relaxing-by-not-doing-anything-active kind of way). I actually find more relaxation in movement than sitting still (weird, I know). But, when the day after my birthday was a “free day,” I chose to “relax” at the resort and actually thoroughly enjoyed laying around! Maybe this is a getting older thing?!? I will say, the scenery definitely helped (as did the fact I needed some recovery from the birthday revelry the night before). 
Proof I was “relaxing!” 
Danny, Joe, and Bryan got up early that day and went on a boat trip, which they enjoyed- while they did say it was odd to be on a boat with “other people.” I completely understand how that would be odd, as all of our tours in the Philippines had been private and, quite frankly, it was the lifestyle to which we had become accustomed! They seemed to tough it out okay, though, strangers and all. 
The next day we hopped a flight to a town called Cebu, and stayed at a beach resort on Mactan island. Our final dinner (sniff, sniff) was at a “floating restaurant” and we even had a personal musician, regaling us with acoustic cover songs. I will say it was quite entertaining to watch the group (mostly British) belting out “Country Roads,” in accompaniment to the Filipino musician, as we sat on a floating restaurant in the middle of the South China/West Philippine sea (which sea it is depends who you ask). A perfect ending to a perfect trip!
My personal favorite is the hat’s perfectly timed jumping photo on the beach! 
Meanwhile, I enjoyed the amenities and soaked in every bit of sun that I could. I only had to push a few kids out of the way to get a turn on the water slide! 
When I left, it was just Phil at the resort…the last one of the group. He tried to evoke some sympathy for this circumstance but I didn’t feel bad for him, at all. 
While it was sad to have the trip come to an end, I’m so glad that the our group chat has continued to be active, as we share photos, re-live memories, and even plan for reunions (yes, reunion plans are already in motion!). Bryan Not-Adams even made a two-minute video of the trip (talk about going above and beyond!) You can view it 
We began our adventure in the city of Manila, that we toured via bamboo bikes. How ingenious to find a way to make a bicycle using the country’s natural resources! And I have to say it was actually a much smoother ride than a “normal” non-bamboo bicycle.
So, Manila is a city with it’s fair share of baggage in the history department. Essentially the country has been under Spanish, Japanese, and American rule for periods of time and (according to our very awesome guide, Bryan Not-Adams), Filipinos are a hybrid in getting their romance from Spain, their business sense from Japan, and their ambition from America. Not a bad combo at all, in my opinion! I have to say that the amount of American influences in the country have definitely surprised me. Most people speak English, for starters, which is something I had not experienced in my southeast Asian travels yet. When we popped into a big shopping mall to use the ATM, it could have been in any mall in America. They even had a Dunkin Donuts and a Forever 21! (Keep in mind this is the major shopping mall in Manila. Very different from the villages we visited later in the trip).
After the bike tour, we chilled at the hotel pool during the hottest part of the afternoon and then I enjoyed an incredible $10 massage. The deal the hotel offers is actually 2 hours for $1000 pesos (about $20) and there is no option for one hour-. I think I like this “island time” thing! I was certain if I had a 2-hour massage I would succumb to jet lag and fall asleep, so I “split” the time block with one of my new friends, Kristina.
So, we travelled via sea plane to El Nido- a first for me! [Although, in full disclosure, this plane took off from the sea but landed at an airport so I’m not sure it counts as a full sea plane experience? Regardless, it was a cool.] We pretty much sat with the pilot, a friendly Canadian, and it felt a little bit like being in a flight simulator (although thankfully just watching and not flying). Here comes our aircraft:
Preparing to board (some of us are just a smidge nervous)
We made it! Our first meal in El Nido.
We spent that evening in a small beach town and enjoyed a spectacular sunset before our chariot arrived the next morning (our chariot being a boat) that would be taking us to a remote, private island where we would be camping for three days (yes, that’s right, I said private island). On the way there we “island-hopped” (this is a thing), did lots of snorkeling, and had lunch on one of the many isolated white sandy beaches. We arrived at our private island later that afternoon, where we stayed at the one 
Fiona made herself right at home on the private island (yes, I’m trying to say private island as much as I can).
Private island life was a very rustic and very phenomenal experience- the views of the sea, sunsets, and stars were like no other, and the staff could not have done more to go above and beyond and make us feel at home on the island. We were even treated to a concert by the daughter of the chef! 
Speaking of the chef, the food was amazing and they even roasted a pig for us on the second night. The bacon at breakfast the next morning was also delicious. 
After sleeping in mosquito net tents on the beach (at the waters edge under the most star-filled sky) we enjoyed another full day of island hopping and snorkeled for hours among vibrant coral and fish. Life is really tough right now, I know. 
We tried to coordinate a synchronized jump off the boat (we’d seen the passengers on another boat do this and thought it looked cool). Getting into position took some time and once we were all finally ready, Oliver (who was ring leader of the group jump) must have gotten excited and jumped in early. We are just a little dismayed by this premature jump.
Finally, success! Sort of.
I had thought my back was maybe a little pink from all the snorkeling but when I returned to the island, the owner greeted us and immediately offered me aloe for my back. There were no mirrors on the island so asked him to take a picture so I could survey the damage. Ouch. 
Much aloe later, it’s finally faded- that sun can really creep up on you while snorkeling. That night we witnessed another phosphorescent sunset, collectively noticing that the prettiest colors actually came out about 15 minutes after the sun had set. Not sure if this is just a Philippines thing and I’ll have to start paying attention during sunsets elsewhere. With Bryan’s help I also used the time-lapse feature for the first time to capture the sunset. Let me see if I can figure out how to share it…
I had grouper steamed in lemongrass shared some DELISH grilled squid.
The next day we had the option of a free day to relax at the resort or go on a lagoon boat tour- difficult life decisions. I opted for the tour and seven of us had the BEST day crusading around the West Philippines sea, stopping to explore multiple amazing lagoons. Since it was a holiday (Good Friday) the boat traffic was heavier than usual but we still managed to find a secret lagoon, where we were the only ones there for a period of time. Lunch was on THE most secluded beach, which also happened to have THE best snorkeling of the trip so far. And that’s saying a lot! It was a fantastic day and we were all grateful to Bryan for organizing it for us on a free day. Although I think his motivation may have been partially selfish as he seemed to have just as much fun as we did. 
We reunited with the rest of our group for a sunset cocktail (and there was so much for us all to catch up on after not all being together almost a whole day!) I felt kind of guilty telling those who hadn’t come on the lagoon tour how spectacular it was, but they all seemed quite content with their decision (and also looked very relaxed).